How many miles do you put on your steers?

Did a 3 axle alignment at a quality alignment shop when I got these 10 tires this past Feb. They also checked the wheel bearings but I still wonder if that may be my trouble. I'll get another 3 axle alignment when i get the next steers. Might take a closer look at the wheel bearings. What is the best way to check them in my driveway at the house? Raise a wheel off the ground and use a big pry bar underneath to see if there is play. How much is acceptable?

 

Kingpins were checked when i had new leaf spring bushings installed. Alignment shop doesn't charge full price to just check alignment on the rear axles when they do my steer, only if they need alignment do I pay full price for 3 axles.

 

Jack it up. Either pry it or push it, if it moves like its lose, there's a problem. Look over the kingpin while moving it, there shouldn't be any freeplay.
Spin it while touching the brake canister if you feel rough vibration, the wheel bearings worn out.
If there is any freeplay at all check the kingpins first, then the bearings, lift and move side to side.

 

From my understanding, that's why this thread is posted that he's had bad luck with 2 sets of steers, indicating there is a problem and aligning the steer axle isn't taking care of the problem. That's why I suggested aligning all 3 axles because cupping is caused by the thrust angle of the drives being off 1 or more degrees pushing the steer axle to one side or the other. Of course we're both entitled to our own opinions, that's my 2 cents based on my experience managing a fleet.

And yes, to check wheel bearing, the easiest way is to jack the wheel in the air like others explained. It can be hard to get a good feel on the steer axle because of the steering components like the spindle can make it difficult to determine the true amount of play. I prefer to check the steer wheel bearing by pulling the hub cap, retaining nuts and washers and set screw, and the outside bearing. Clean the oil off of the bearing, spin it to make sure it spins smooth, and check it for any signs of pitting or circular grooves around the rollers. Re assemble, then you know it's tightened to the right specs and you've had a chance to examine all the components.

 

Their checking the wheel bearings consisted of the first method, not the latter... ...and that looks like what I need to do next week at home.

 

You guys could probably make a few dollars just selling records/data stored on the fleet in terms of knowing what works or not. Proof beats corporate marketing every time.

 

IF I was to do all that, I would just go ahead & replace the race,bearings & seal on both steers.

 

Depends on how many miles the truck has on it. Most aluminum steer assemblies are rated for 3 years or 350000 miles. However, its common for us to go 5 years or 600000 miles without replacing bearings, races, seals ect. Doing that, you'd have about $100/wheel in parts. Food for thought.

JP

 

Yeah I see your point, not trying to be disagreeable, but if I drive to my shop, turn compressor on, get out the jack, impact, take off the wheel, hub, nut's, NOW depending on the mileage & the look or the play. I may decide to just do it all. but maybe not too.

 

My XZA3's just came off last week after 220,000 miles... best set of tires I have ever owned.