Wish I was lucky enough to get u-joints out with a bottle jack. Seems like most of the time its Tiger Tool & 3/4" drive impact and then beat the crap out of it with a sledge. Sometimes a torch gets added into the mix.
Non-Spicer U-joint
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by God prefers Diesels, Oct 15, 2021.
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If I need to beat or torch, I just cut the joint, take the middle out of the caps with the torch, and drive em out. Taking the grease fitting out or opening a cap first to prevent grease pressurizing is a good safety tip.
If the tiger tool works its awesome. I find once you start beating, the caps and ears misaline and fight the whole way out.Last edited: Oct 16, 2021
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They make a U-joint press, I bought one and it works pretty good. That hammer action can get painful if you get your sore finger caught between the handle and the frame rail or something lol, good thing you took it out…jamespmack, Oxbow, shooter19802003 and 1 other person Thank this. -
The tiger tools works swell and everthing must stay in line. When a cap or the tool gets crooked the part/tool binds and it puts alot of tension. Smack the drive screw like an anvil to relax the press and pop the cap. Adding too much torque is without relaxing the tool is what breaks it.
Torching the cross and CP717 to drive the caps is also a great method.
New joints always assemble by hand or with a small dead blow to tap them home. 1" flapper wheel to the yoke bores and a wire wheel or fine flat file to the flanges.jamespmack, black_dog106, Flint1 and 2 others Thank this.
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