I'm sorry. I'm not anywhere being near old and this "automatic transmission" in my current tractor sounds like I'm switching over from an A-10 Warthog to an F-35 flying laptop. Going down hill empty is fine for me to figure out. But when I've got 48k lbs of milk sloshing around in the back, I'd be going into panic mode and probably engaging the wrong switches. Eh, I'll just have to figure it out until the "Global Unpleasantness Phases I-Whatever" have run their course. Then like some who try to jump ship due to cameras, I'll be the one who jumps ship due to manual transmission preference.
Most guys just jump in without learning how they work. Knowledge is power and safety. They will work fine if you allow it to, and get on top of things early. If you have 48 on, you better get to position 3 real fast.
"Okay, position three on the grade. Which switch again? **punches every button on dash** **looks at speedo** Well, that's rubbish!!" Yeah I'm just going to stay out of the mountains until I figure this stupid thing out. If not, live like High Plain's Robinson Crusoe!! I guess after all the jokes about "old boomers", I've officially become the technologically challenged, old boomer!!
I never understood it when people said this. It suggests a flexible connection between the tractor and trailer when that isn’t the case. It COULD make your drives go sideways though. That I have seen.
I don’t know about a Detroit, but with a Cummins that will have you breaking traction if empty or lightly loaded. I’ve seen it happen with my truck. It’s rare that I need to go above level 1.
Agree. I can’t imagine needing level 3 without a significant weight in the trailer. Level 1 for light or perhaps 2 middle weight loads has been my experience so far. Still learning and have only driven the Detroit to now.
You get off the big road in pa and upstate NY there are some steep grades. Not very long but steep. Ohio 255 comes to mind. 15% grade with multiple switchback
You can do the same thing manually all you need to know RPM range of the engine when engine brakes are on. Stage 3 is 1750-2200 RPMs and stage 1 and 2 are like 1200-1750 RPMs. If your going downhill try stage 1 or 2 first. If you need more engine brake go to 3 and be ready for the transmission to drop an gear and bring the engine RPMs to 1750-2200. Then see if stage 3 can hold you back without any bakes needed. You will go downhill at 1750-2200 RPMs that what stage 3 is designed for. If stage 3 is to much power, when the RPMs drop to 1800, you switch to stage 2 and let the truck roll back up to 2100-2200 RPMs. Then turn stage 3 back on. The thing to remember is at 1750 RPMs the transmission will drop another gear and keep slowing truck down, unless you switch to stage 2
Freightliner with Detroit engine. The Detroit engine and Detroit transmission can talk to each other. So they work together as one. They put the ability of using the cruise control to set the downhill speed. Then using the transmissions to try and hold that speed by downshifting gears and using engine brake
A clutch and listening to the engine still seems a whole lot easier though. I just don't want end up being that poor fella that went flying down the 70 not too long ago while frantically trying to remember everything you just said.