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Quick wheel seal question...

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by HopeOverMope, Nov 23, 2018.

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jamespmack Road Train Member

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Ridgeline said: ↑

Stemco makes a seal with a metal ring (I think they are called Guardian seals) that goes over a damaged spindle, this seal itself is made to run with that ring installed to ensure it seals. I've used them on high mileage trucks before where there was a groove started in the spindle and sealing wasn't good.

You may have bought the replacement stemco seals, they are good too but a lot of spindles are getting past the QC process and being put on trucks with bad heat treating surfaces.
Click to expand...

Stemco Grit Guard. Just remember the blue on a stemco is paint, and needs sealed. All so sealant needs to be put on wear ring to spindle. Green on CR seals is sealant.

jamespmack, Nov 25, 2018

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BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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jamespmack said: ↑

Stemco Grit Guard. Just remember the blue on a stemco is paint, and needs sealed. All so sealant needs to be put on wear ring to spindle. Green on CR seals is sealant.
Click to expand...

I always put a small film of silicone on the spindle anyway. On standard trailers I have always replaced the axle if it had a bad spindle. It does not cost much more than the repair.

BoxCarKidd, Nov 25, 2018

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Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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BoxCarKidd said: ↑

I thank truck seals are all two piece any more. If you take your one piece seal, hold it in both hands, push the inside with your thumbs the inside will turn in the outside. All of the wear surfaces are replaced with the seal as they do not turn in the in the hub or on the spindle.
The steel sleeve driven on the spindle with, silicone between the two, can cover many imperfections others wont. Also the seal material is leather and much more flexible than some of the alternatives. That allows for worn spindles a bit more. I use the grit guard seals on a regular basis but I have most all the tools. The wear ring can be driven on with a hammer and punch while walking around it. However not for most steers.
I did come across a drive axle seal years ago that did not bottom in the bore. The proper tool would stop it about 1/4 inch before. When the seal was bottomed in the bore the lip did not touch the spindle.
While they are my preferred seal some old beat up spindles and or hubs seem to like something else. Maybe that multiple groove rubber seal in the hub?
The number one killer of seals is loose wheel bearings and second is stopped up vents.
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Stopped up vents makes sense good to know that. The Scotseal Alf seems best to me it has

Rideandrepair, Nov 25, 2018

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Rideandrepair said: ↑

Stopped up vents makes sense good to know that. The Scotseal Alf seems best to me it has
Click to expand...

Skf !

Rideandrepair, Nov 25, 2018

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Rideandrepair said: ↑

Skf !
Click to expand...

They are great seals I just don't thank they are the best for spindles in poor condition.

BoxCarKidd, Nov 25, 2018

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BoxCarKidd said: ↑

I always put a small film of silicone on the spindle anyway. On standard trailers I have always replaced the axle if it had a bad spindle. It does not cost much more than the repair.
Click to expand...

I’m glad to hear that. As last front brake job I had the bearings and seals replaced. The guy used silicone. I questioned that. Must be right though no problems. Fine line between questioning a Mechanic and being an aggravation resulting in higher labor charges. Lol

Rideandrepair, Nov 25, 2018

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I would get the seal done again. They can be finicky. I like national seals myself. Older guys liked stemco seals because you could pull the hub a few times without destroying the seal. That was in the days of inboard drums and dayton wheels. Saved you from having to true up the wheels too. 95%percent of shops frown on that nowadays because of comebacks.

special-k, Nov 25, 2018

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HopeOverMope Road Train Member

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special-k said: ↑

I would get the seal done again. They can be finicky. I like national seals myself. Older guys liked stemco seals because you could pull the hub a few times without destroying the seal. That was in the days of inboard drums and dayton wheels. Saved you from having to true up the wheels too. 95%percent of shops frown on that nowadays because of comebacks.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Plan on asking one of our shops about the stemco/ wear ring combo. And the new style jam/locking nut and see what they know about it

Then include the silicone on the spindle part. Nice info y’all.

Last edited: Nov 25, 2018

HopeOverMope, Nov 25, 2018

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Rideandrepair said: ↑

I’m glad to hear that. As last front brake job I had the bearings and seals replaced. The guy used silicone. I questioned that. Must be right though no problems. Fine line between questioning a Mechanic and being an aggravation resulting in higher labor charges. Lol
Click to expand...

That was just referring to seals with wear rings. On nice spindles and hubs with your SKF-CR I dry install as per instructions. If one of the sealing areas has a spot damaged from a Gomer I have put a spot of silicone there with good results. It probably does not normally hurt to have silicone on a CR , drive in type, but I had one turn in the hub years ago. The hub was pitted badly so I skimmed the hub with silicone. It was leaking loads later, loaded with a bridge beam and permitted for in the morning. They picked it up a bit with a Drott and I slid the duels off on an oiled sheet of plywood. Drove a CR in dry like the first one I took out for a brake job. It never leaked.
Nuts are no magic trick it is proper adjustment that matters.

BoxCarKidd, Nov 25, 2018

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No matter nut type, checking with dial indicator is the only way to verify. .001 to .005.

jamespmack, Nov 25, 2018

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