No nut on this one. Snap ring. How do they come out the front? Mine was captured by an internal snap ring in the drive gear. It will only go inwards. Unless it all comes out with the front bearing?
Yes it comes out with the bearing. Also there is a bearing puller available for the countershaft bearings. With the snap ring removed the puller slips into the snap ring groove and a center bolt pushes the bearing off.
I wanted to open it up anyways and see what condition it was in. I had a hard shifting issue and wanted to make sure the mainshaft wasn't twisted. I think it was due to the shift detents being seized in the bores. I just picked up a bearing splitter kit too so I can pull the races off the ends of the countershafts.
Can someone with a bit more knowledge of these transmission clarify something for me? My transmission data plate is stamped RTX-15615. Shift pattern has 3rd and 4th rearward and 5th (top gear) against the dash. Is that an RTX or RTO shift pattern?
I will share what I have done so the world can tell me how stupid I am. It can be painful at times but maybe save someone else some in the future. Get the fork out of the way and the bearing cover bolts. The bearing cover can be removed without disturbing the bellhousing. Thread holes at 180 degrees to 7/16. Install short bolts to pry under the heads or use dual slid hammers. Then remove the snap ring from the shaft in front of the bearing. Strike the shaft with a hammer toward the transmission. It is a bit loose in the gear and as it rebounds should bump the bearing out enough to get behind the external snap ring. After the bearing is removed take the snap ring out of the gear and replace the shaft. If it is jumping out of direct because of a worn input gear and sliding clutch slide the clutch out the front and replace it. That was usually good for a couple hundred thousand miles. The latter model transmissions have different splines on the front and rear of the clutch so that is not possible.
Sounds like you got the job done. I'm not being critical. I found it easier to remove the bell housing then change the input shaft. Usually replaced the input shaft when replacing the clutch because the splines were in rough shape.
I was out cleaning up my parts and prepping to reassemble the transmission. I compared the input drive gear to the bearing bore and the drive gear on this particular transmission is about 1.5 inch larger than the bearing bore. Seems kind of silly to have to destroy the rear countershaft bearings and disassemble the whole transmission for just an input shaft. Also having some issues with the input shafts. First one was wrong, I obtained a part number off the old one, which crossed over to a new part number (S-1409). According to Eaton's part book, this shaft should be the correct one. The issue I'm having is that the gear teeth that mesh into the input drive gear are narrower, so there is a lot of rotational slop between the shaft and gear. At this point, I think I'm going to stuff a good used shaft I have into it. There's a bit of wear on the splines but nothing too crazy. With the low amount of miles I'll be putting on the truck, I think it'll work just fine.
No the drive gear will not come out the input shaft bearing hole but the shaft will come out of the drive gear and that hole. The sliding clutch can follow. The newer model transmissions have that very loose fitting spline set up and appears they retroed that. Don't worry be happy. If anyone knows better please correct the error of my post. Thanks.