SHAKING/BOUNCING KING PINS MAYBE ?

Do you always pull the same trailer?

 

Front drive shaft has been replaced? I wonder if the u-joints are out of phase.

 

Have you jacked up the front end and rolled your tires as fast as you can and then watch any hop in them at all

 

Did this vibration begin after the driveline(s) were replaced? If so, it's possible that the slip joint was put together incorrectly and the u-joints are not in phase. This would also tend to hammer on the carrier bearing. It would be worth checking......that and the ride height that @Diesel Dave mentioned.

 

I don’t think having both weights and balancing beads or centrimatics is recommended. Choose 1 only. Seems like beads or centrimatics would fine tune a tire/wheel that’s already been balanced. I was told years ago that it works the opposite. Being overbalanced. Same way an improper balance using too much weight and countering it with more weight opposite of it caress problems.

 

I think the experts have given you the answer. Loose wheel end. You can remove the hubcap and look at the bearings to make sure that’s the problem. You’ll see the movement. There’s specific by the book procedures and settings. There’s also ways to snug it up for now. Everyone has their own ways it seems. I’ll let you decide what’s best. Good chance the bearings should be replaced. Rollers may have wearing on edges from running loose. Likely have some pitting from age. Cages may be getting sloppy. Simply tightening the wheel end may cause rollers to contact the cage. That’s not good. Best to replace bearings, and races, at minimum. Better to get hub/bearing kits. Races are already installed. Worth the time and labor saved. Lot of Shops won’t even change them. Old aluminum hubs often go bad and allowed the race to spin anyway. Best to get new hubs. Get new nuts also. They’re cheap enough. Old ones tend to have threads that are loose, making the final torque process difficult. On a 2 nut system, the final torque on the outside nut often causes the inner nut to become over tightened, because the inner nut threads are sloppy. So new nuts, lock ring, torqued properly and checked with a dial indicator. Then run worry free. Beware of the shade tree mechanic ( like me ) on this job. Lol.

 

Yes, it absolutely can. I can't tell you it isn't in your front end because I've had some trouble with that before too.

You've gotten some excellent advice already, but I've had crappy drive tires like the ones I see on your truck in the video (sorry, no offense) and they gave me awful vibrations at 55-65. It only went away when I was heavy on my drives. Always vibrated with light loads and almost undriveable bobtail.

Switched to Michelin drives and problem gone.