Tandem pins will not retract, lack of air pressure?

I was under the impression that it depended on how the trailer was speced. I have seen Utility 3000R trailers set up in a multitude of ways. Some push, some pull. some that dont automatically pop out by pushing in the red valve, some that do. Some where you can chose to inflate or deflate the bags independently of the red valve.

 

I had this very problem the other day. Had 110 PSI which is supposedly what is required to slide the pins, but no go. The compressor wasn't pumping though so I decided to give it a leak (at the red hose) until the compressor kicked in, then let it build until the governor kicked out. The pins slid just fine at 125 PSI.

 

I worked with an outfit that had Great Danes, and you pulled the knob out to release the pins.

 

With our 2013 and newer Great Danes reefers you have to use the palm of your hand to "smartly" hit the mushroom head button to release the pins. Their system is far superior to most of the Utility systems I've worked with that had the small push-pull button.

 

I had a good friend that his 5th wheel came off the truck and the trailer went over the big hill before Peoria Il on I 74, just to the West of Peoria, after the last exit, and before 474. By the time he got turned around and back to the place, there were 2 state troopers standing and looking over the side. Not a good day!

 

All our trailers are like that. We have mostly Utility with a few Wabash and Great Dane trailers.

 

I always start with two items: First...spray the rails & pins w/WD-40. I do this on every trailer no matter what..air or manual. If needed whack the offending pin(s) with a decent weight plastic "dead-blow" mallet... ( about $15 @ Harbor Freight).
Generally no worries after that, but the vice grip idea is great too.

 

Yeah, you definitely can't do that in this state because of our bridge law (I'm sure you know that). A good rule of thumb I learned is to line up the mud flap with the hook on the side that holds the doors open, unless your lucky enough to have a trailer with the length posted on the side of the trailer. The hook on the side to hold the doors open is generally the back of the bridge and you won't be bothered. And it sucks if you can't get them to move, because if you tell the DOT you can't move them you'll more than likely get a ticket for something on the trailer being faulty...

Yes, until they get old and worn out and no matter how high you lift the lever, the pins still don't go fully inside the holes... Some trailers I've pulled have been like that and it's pretty irritating, or when the pins are so rusty or binded so tight that I can't lift the lever at all.. I'll take the air system any day.. Maybe it's just because I'm little and not strong enough to lift the lever when it's stuck LOL.

 

This is why you need a hammer. Even if you just hooked up and have not aired up trailer, disengage pins and hit it with a hammer. Saves alot of time and your efficient about it. While your under there spray some wd on the rails. Works for me all the time. Beats waiting for trailer to air up. Solved

 

That has worked many times in the past. This new issue is strange tho. They were not stuck by any means, pins in the middle of the holes with no resistance on the pins from the tandem rails.