What they were talking about was polarization angle. Cross polarization can lose 20 dB of signal. All you do is forward tilt your antenna to where at highway speed in average wind it is nearly vertical. Unless you have close stacks behind them, in that case I err toward forward somewhat to unload the antenna from the stack. Fiberglass has some dissipation and lowers light speed (adds capacitance) upsetting the ratio of phase and group velocity, as well it holds moisture and road chemicals adding to this loss effect. This results in loss of some degree. Metal depending upon composition can coat itself with an oxide layer approaching the skip penetration depth at 27 MHZ, also you will have more wind corona induced static (noise). In weak DX conditions this could matter. You always compromise somewhere. Also for metal consider geometry and metallurgy, many joints VS seamless welding matters. In my opinion nothing beats the Monkey Made IX in these considerations. Large ribbon inductor of high efficiency and seamless welding throughout. Assuming you do not have to compromise mounting this monster down low and too far forward tilted to get down the road.
On a 4 wheeler I still prefer the 102" SS unless I can find a Francis CB 50 Amazer, ASAIK no longer made due to over length shipping costs.
top load vs center load antenna
Discussion in 'CB Radio Forum' started by fgb3, Dec 18, 2011.
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While the stainless whips are more flexible, they don't catch as much wind, which means I don't see them bending back as far going down the road.
Stay far away from the wilson fiberglass sticks. I bought a pair and had one fail, replaced the failed 1 then had the other one fail. I went single with the one good one till SWR went through the roof with that one also.
I found the issue with them. They have a very poor solder connection at the base and the main wire breaks off the base. I was able to repair all three of them using Harris Safety Silv and redoing the way they matted the wire to the base slightly. They tuned out just fine and worked like new after the repair but I had ended up going with the whip style. I gave the Wilson sticks to one of our drivers. He ended up snapping them off anyway. One tree branch and the later 1 due to ice buildup.Smaggs Thanks this. -
yeah, I think I'll go with a whip style. Probably K40 6000 watt or maybe the Wilson 5000 watt. I don't think there's a problem with "too much antenna"
I looked my antannae over, both are holding water on the inside now.. the ones that come on the Volvo trucks... I forgot the brand. I looked at their website and you can't even see the specs of their stuff.... supposedly military used, too. -
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Hey mike5511 here's what I got so far. I spent a couple hours on this last week end I have the new mount from walcotts right so I replaced my coax with some better quality stuff(18 foot k40 coax with a boot on the outside) then I found 3 20inch by 3/4 inch braided at NAPA not copper they didn't have any copper but oh well. I used a small piece of coax about 4 inches long between one bolt to the bolt that came with the mount. Ran one piece of braided from another bolt to the inside of the door frame onto one of those bolts ran another from that to the bottom hinge and the third from the hinge to the other side there are 3or 4 10mm nuts that go through the plastic piece but bolt into aluminum you'll see them when you open the door they will be on the right side on the very bottom on I ran another piece of coax this one had to be about 25inches or so to the ground mount for the batteries (the one that goes in the frame boom done. Just had swr checked in virgina and couldn't believe it 1.2 and 1.4. That is prolly the lowest I've ever had it in 15 years and many trucks. The only thing now is the wilson is to low. I saw a preditor at the cb shop but not the Bad to the bone one and he didn't have any longer shafts but I think if I get the 17 inch on the coil will be just above the mirror. Ill let you know how it works then thanks for all the help I think I can now see light at the end of tunnel lol
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