Can someone explain a mechanical neck spitting you out…? I got the hydraulic covered…. Just never seen a mechanical in action…….
P.S. I don’t get out much……..
What if it Snows?
Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by Dave_in_AZ, Mar 19, 2018.
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Nuclear power is way too dangerous for the green crowd and their electric cars. They still prefer coal. They claim they don't but I'm convinced they are too stupid to even know what they think. They are mind benders.Speedy356, Feedman, LoSt_AgAiN and 10 others Thank this.
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Well I told LilBow that she got the most expensive anniversary gift a Po Boy could muster up— a place to crap with out fear of flooding the basementLoSt_AgAiN, BennysPennys, Lumper Humper and 10 others Thank this.
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I know for a fact that the Carl Vinson went from Alameda to Gonzo Station inside of a week — I’ll let you do the mathFeedman, LoSt_AgAiN, BennysPennys and 8 others Thank this.
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Well, you sure have me beat. After 25 years I'm still scared my basement will flood after 5 days of of hard tain. Even have the old lady trained on emergency sump pump repair. Thinking she probably hates me deep inside. LolFeedman, LoSt_AgAiN, BennysPennys and 10 others Thank this.
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Well, to unhook, you release your fifth wheel and pull out. This take pressure of the dog bones (plates that hook pins on the neck to pins on the deck). Then you back under again and attach the fifth wheel, block under the neck to the truck frame, and pack the neck away.
Hooking up is just the same process in reverse. The final move picks the load off the ground as the rollers on the front of the neck roll up the ramps and then on to the fifth wheel. There is a lot of pressure on rears, gears, etc. as the rollers roll up the ramps. When it is slick out this pressure can overcome traction and spit the tractor back out away from the neck.
I hope that makes sense!Feedman, LoSt_AgAiN, BennysPennys and 13 others Thank this. -
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ok so after you put the machine on the deck you back the tractor back to the trailer with the neck on the 5th wheel and what? The pins or dogs don’t line up so you attach them loosely drop the neck off the 5th wheel and tighten them up by sweat equity. Then back under the trailer…..I guess.LoSt_AgAiN, BennysPennys, Lumper Humper and 1 other person Thank this.
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Congrats for 27 yrs. Wife and I did the same one year we were out at a diner when the bill came I noticed the date and said babe today is the 13th I think we forgot something. Be thankful you both forgot because if only you and I forgot, well we probably both wouldn't be here lolLoSt_AgAiN, BennysPennys, Lumper Humper and 12 others Thank this.
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5/8 inch black phos and oil flanged bolts and Flanged nuts. Its the ONLY type of bolt I will use on a frame... Looks very professional, and resists corrosion.
Tacoma Screw Products | 5/8\x22-11 x 2\x22 Flange Cap Screws — SAE J429 / IFI-111 Grade 8, Phosphate & Oil, 25/PKG
That's a link to 2 inch long bolts, but probably only need 1.5 inch.
Here is a link to the nuts you want. They are a 100% steel lock nut, DO NOT use washers of ANY type with these nuts. Tighten them down with an impact if you can get one into where they are at... Otherwise use as big of a cheater as you can manage.
Tacoma Screw Products | 5/8\x22-11 Flange Lock Nuts — Grade G ASME B18.16.6, Phosphate & Oil, Coarse, 25/PKG
These are the EXACT bolts and nuts I've used when I've stretched truck frames or added a butt plate to a frame so a pintle hitch could be added to pull a pup. Yes they are expensive... But they are worth every penny... Nuts should only be used once, if you remove them use new nuts.
Edit: Upon further review of your photo and reading exactly how a mechanical neck works... I would go up to 3/4... But still black phos and oil, flanged bolts and that style of lock nut.Last edited: May 6, 2022
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