Any tips joining transmission to engine

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Dino soar, Oct 21, 2018.

  1. Hulld

    Hulld Road Train Member

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    Yes
    I have seen this done before but I have never done it that way before.
     
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  3. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    I like that with the big boys, flat wheels.
    I often use a big pair of canal locks to pull the two together. If they wont come together you need to do something different.
     
  4. Dino soar

    Dino soar Road Train Member

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    Thank you to everyone that replied. Everything is installed I tested the clutch and it releases.

    I would recommend to anyone going to do this job to buy the Eaton clutch install Kit because it comes with all the gaskets for the bellhousing and Tower, input shaft input bearing and clutch Fork. I would also recommend that you install new cross shafts and bushings if they are worn.

    Replace the nylon lock nuts on the bellhousing and replace the bolts that hold the clutch housing in with grade 8 flange bolts because you probably can't find those internal tooth lock washers, I couldn't. I also put threadlocker blue on those bolts and the clutch Fork bolts. I also installed a two piece haldex clutch brake so that it will be easier to change when it's time.

    Eaton tells you not to put any grease on the splines so I just put a very very very tiny amount on the end of the shaft that goes into the pilot bearing.

    Go back and reread everything that was said in this post, because cumulatively that's the best information you're ever going to find. Especially to take your alignment tool, I used an old shaft that I cut down and another shaft that was in good shape just about like new, and take your tool once it's in and everything is bolted in and aligned and hit it up and down and side to side to make more room for the shaft. And when you hit at the end of it into or the engine it will pop back out at you if you've got it all the way in. That's really great advice.

    I actually did not have the tool completely all the way in through both discs which I thought that I did. So my advice to you would be to take a tape measure and measure from the input bearing out to the end of the release bearing so that you know how far your shaft is in and put a mark on it. And also Bop the end of it because that's the ticket. It'll bounce back out when you have it all the way in.

    Make sure the clutch Forks are all the way up and guide it in and when it's almost in you'll have to flip the forks down to go over the release bearing or it won't go in.

    As the other contributors have said, it will fall in like absolutely nothing. No forcing no pushing no nothing it will just fall in like absolutely nothing.

    I put this in with my engine out of the truck, but if it's in the truck make sure you're on a level concrete floor and you have the right transmission Jack, because that's the only way you're going to be able to do this correctly and safely. I knew someone that tried to do this without the right transmission jack and they dropped their transmission and broke the housing.

    If you are going to do this yourself don't be afraid of it just follow what the experienced people here have said because it will all work out for you.

    Thanks again to everyone for all the help and great advice.
     
  5. SAR

    SAR Road Train Member

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    Glad you got it together! Yes the members on here are great help.

    One other thing I would do if yours doesn't have them is put grease hoses up to both cross shaft bushings so they hang down both sides of the tranny. That way when you underneath your truck greasing you don't have to reach and feel up here for the grease zerks. I would also put one on for the throwout bearing. That way it is sticking through the inspection hole and easy to grease. Just a suggestion.

    If you do the grease hoses make sure you get them prefilled with grease before installing.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2018
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  6. Dino soar

    Dino soar Road Train Member

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    I did put the hose from the old clutch on to the throwout bearing. I did pre Grease the hose and I did Grease the throwout bearing and I did Grease the cross shaft bushings, but I didn't think to put hoses on for them.

    Do I have to go to a hydraulic place and have the hoses made up?
     
    SAR Thanks this.
  7. Jazz1

    Jazz1 Road Train Member

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    I always used grease gun hoses. Less than $10
     
    Dino soar, SAR and Goodysnap Thank this.
  8. SAR

    SAR Road Train Member

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    I bought mine where I purchased the clutch and install kit from. Like @Jazz1 said a grease gun hose will work. You might need a 45 degree fitting off the trans so your hose can come down at a nice angle.
     
    Dino soar Thanks this.
  9. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    Glad you got it worked it worked out. Forgot to say my preferred tool for pulling the two housing together is a pair of large channel locks.
     
    Dino soar Thanks this.
  10. spsauerland

    spsauerland Road Train Member

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    CLT008P is Eaton P/N for grease "lube tubes" hoses. Getting older so I use a clutch caddy to put clutches in these days. I do always put some grease on alignment shaft around where pilot bearing rides and slide shaft in a couple times after torqued and wood falls down to ensure input shaft slides all the way into the pilot bearing. You can "see" the grease on the pilot bearing.
     
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