Instant O/O and Load boards

Yeah, those carbs are finicky... and a pain in the butt to work on. Another thing that will cause them to die at idle is the plug wires. Mist the resistor caps with water at night... if you see a light show, it's time for new wires. Convert 'em to automotive 7mm though... last I checked, Yamaha factory wires were $100 a set.

 

I'll try that when I get home. Also going to try and rn some seafoam through it to clean it out. If that doesn't work I'm taking it to a shop. I don't even want to try and sync 4 carbs on that thing.

 

You don't have to sync 'em as long as you don't separate them. If I remember correctly, the float bowls will come off with the carbs still linked. Be very precise when setting the float levels.

Bad plug wires will masquerade as carb trouble on a Max motor though. Those V-4's do not like to idle on three cylinders.

 

I have no idea how to break in,....But if your in a truck stop and see a car hauler the is an off chance he may have a set of slim jim's and wedges in his tool box,.....

After yous get it sorted out I might recommend keeping a spare key in your pocket and for overkill zip strap and duck tape a spare somewhere hidden on the truck,....

 

The day cab Volvo I drive is the same way,...I just figured the company was being really cheep when they ordered them,....I don't think I would like to drive through any rough neighborhoods and not be able to lock my door,...

 

The door WILL lock from the inside while you're in it... just push the lever forward.

But... if you try to lock the door as you're getting out, it will spring back and won't stay locked. The locking mechanism doesn't work when the door is open. Rather ingenious I thought... no way to lock your keys in the truck.

 

OK,..So my company did order cheap trucks,...The only lever on the door opens the door,.......Unless I am doing something wrong???

 

That same lever locks the door... push it forward.

 

Thank you,...........