Abs light stays on trailer.

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by xsetra, Nov 11, 2017.

  1. tamip

    tamip Light Load Member

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    Last shop checked the bearings and tone ring. I dont know if they pushed the sensor in or not but the TA did today
     
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  3. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    I would replace the extension wire from the sensor to the ecu first, might be broken wire, then the sensor, if need be. If it’s a sensor with a long wire, replace the whole thing.
     
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  4. tamip

    tamip Light Load Member

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    That's exactly what I wanted them to do but of course they didnt
     
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  5. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    I replaced my sensor first, only to find the wire lead was bad. Later the sensor backed out of the bracket, had to knock it back in. Usually it’s a broken wire. Sensor itself doesn’t go bad. The codes Y1, Y2, depend on which way the valve is mounted. Can be either side, depending
     
  6. tamip

    tamip Light Load Member

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    How did you determine the wire was bad
     
  7. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    I just replaced it. I guess you could switch two of them , see if the code changes. I just replaced both of mine, kept the 1 good one as a spare. Ended up using it a few weeks later, when one of the new ones got damaged. They come in different lengths 6’, 10”and 16’, or so. Only costs about $25, if I recall.
     
  8. tamip

    tamip Light Load Member

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    Did you have to get it from a trailer shop
     
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  9. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    6BA20036-086D-490D-97AC-70D04606F4D2.png EB488994-ADAB-411E-9A56-156313FDE97B.png Yes, Dealerships, Truck stop shops, Fleetguard. I don’t know how to post a link. But here’s the website, to help identify which ecu, type and which way it’s mounted, and codes. Meritor, the other one wabco, I used for my Truck, had the same problem My trailer also had a bad main harness going into the ecu. No power to diagnostic light. Had to get light working, then get it to go off. Each time you fix a problem, must drive it over 3-5 mph, to get light to turn off. If there’s a second problem it will come on again, and blink codes need to be checked again. Key on key off, key on key off key on- count blinks on little red light, on back of trailer. Both sites have all the procedures. I have the 4/2 system. The simplest of them all. Only has 2 sensors. Some have 4, first you need to identify which ecu, and which way it’s mounted. I mistakenly replaced the wrong side, also replaced sensors till I figured it out. Just a broken wire somewhere in the lead wire to sensor. Very small wires, can’t tell it has a break, unless you see physical damage.
     
  10. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    Wcoastent.com for trailer
     
  11. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    19FA2EB8-2CF6-4B54-89A4-80D34D887AE0.png Try the top web address. Let Me know if you get to the Troubleshooter. If not, maybe I can figure out how to send a link
     
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