Where is everyone #5

Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by DDlighttruck, Aug 27, 2017.

  1. jamespmack

    jamespmack Road Train Member

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    Doorman has a great kit. 89 bucks and change at oriely auto parts. Include both jumpers across the rear diff. I did not drop the tank. I unbolted the left side of the bed and jacked it up. Line slide in place fine. Start that one from the back going forward slide it in the wheel well to ABS valve then slip it between bed and frame on top. I replace all rubber too. The RF is a pita, but just take both wheel wells out, and skid plated off. You dont need to pull grill and rad, like someone suggested. It would really help to have a second set of hands, but I did manage by myself. Really would have helped. Not saying I'm that good. Just didn't have anyone to help.

    Time wise idk, I could only work on it part time. Draw you a road map of locations and double check it. Needs to be 100%. Then hack them out with a saw. I wasted about a hour trying to remove them one by one. To much rust and the retard came out of the box and chopped them with mini air powered reciprocating saw. Much, much faster.

    Best 89 bucks I ever spent.
     
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  3. stwik

    stwik Road Train Member

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    USA USA USA!!!
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    D.Tibbitt, Tug Toy, 1951 ford and 9 others Thank this.
  4. BigBob410

    BigBob410 Road Train Member

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    Beirut on the Bay, MD.
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    A company called AG has a kit that has all the fittings and is cut to length it's just not pre bent and it says it's a lot easier because you bend it as you go and apparently you don't have to remove as many parts. Screenshot_2020-04-16-12-07-51.png I replaced plenty of frames when I was at the dealership and that was a breeze when you have 2 lifts! Lol but working on the ground with a creeper and jacks is going to be a bit tougher. I was kinda hoping to find someone that had used or heard of this kit.
     
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  5. singlescrewshaker

    singlescrewshaker Road Train Member

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    Little Havana, FL
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    I need to make the time to get up there to PA & have them fellers tweak my ecm a bit.. :)
    Yeah, a few more rev's would be nice. Running up to 1800 then dropping to ~1300 every time I grab one up sucks on any kind of hill. Usually don't bother to shift till I crest the hill cause I don't want to lug it.. :confused:

    I understand going from tall 22.5-tall 24.5 would effectively change the rear ratio. I can't come out off the line hard as is, I figure taller rubber will only make it worse.. I know what you're saying, it will lose some power, but I'm pretty sure it will still net me a few mph on the top end..?

    Would like to be able to cruise around ~74-75mph though..

    How much weight gain are we talking here.? Have steel inner wheels now, would be looking for 4 aluminum if I did change size..

    For what its worth, the door tag shows it was equipped with lo-pro 24.5 steer & tall 24.5 drive. Don't know how accurate that is, or if it was just a size suggestion..? My end goal was to get them Freightliner directional wheels in 24.5 all around.. Could just stay lo-pro all around, then the overall diameter wouldn't really change, but neither would top end..

    It's not that I don't like the idea of a 2 speed rear, or even a gear swap. But we both know I can't do that kind of work..:oops: Would run too much money right now, & let's face it. Haven't had the best luck with shops round these here parts.. LoL


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  6. jamespmack

    jamespmack Road Train Member

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    If that is the copper plated easy to bend stuff? Stay away. It dont like road chemicals. There are so many odd bends I wouldnt think of bending my own after buying pre bent lines. I have and can. But wont if I can buy them.
     
    Tug Toy, 1951 ford, Brettj3876 and 7 others Thank this.
  7. jamespmack

    jamespmack Road Train Member

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    Mar 25, 2014
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    Un



    You can swap the diff your self with a little help. Easy. Weight wise you would have to calculate that. I could do that later. Best fuel milage will be with lap 22.5 and cheaper tires. Now I more tr than understand that everyone's situation is different. I personally see the only advantage of big rubber in ground clearance if needed. I haul much heavier than you on lap 22.5's on my trailers. That's why the truck will get changed next set. Someplace to finish my steers out. Long game it saves me money.
     
  8. beastr123

    beastr123 Road Train Member

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    Moose Jaw SK CAN
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    Sorry to hear about your brother
    Prayers sent
    Glad to see you back
     
  9. BigBob410

    BigBob410 Road Train Member

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    Beirut on the Bay, MD.
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    Thank you sir Good to be back.
     
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  10. 650cat425

    650cat425 Road Train Member

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    I know a guy... but you'd probably need like 3 days off to get everything done up here by me.
     
  11. singlescrewshaker

    singlescrewshaker Road Train Member

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    Dec 31, 2017
    Little Havana, FL
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    Currently with 17.5 rubber on the wagon, I can't get the benefit of one size fits all tires. Make good sense when you can though.. :thumbup:

    Another problem would be my 5th wheel is already higher than it should be. Tall 24's will only exacerbate it. I trusted the frame shop to spec the 5th wheel pedestal height, but they measured frame height off, now I have 50" 5th wheel instead of the 46-47" I wanted.. :confused:

    So between you & @Tug Toy , I should just be happy 27 year ol Buck is still on the road, let alone can do 72mph.. LoL :D

    Heck, if they can get the ecm to spin 2150 for short bursts I'd be happy with that. Sick of these stink'n sod haulers on the 2 lanes down here. They run 10-12 under the limit for 5miles in a 60 zone. You go to pass & next thing you know you are side by side at 65 cause they don't want you to get by.. You fall in behind cause you don't want to die in a fiery head on collision, & you're back to 50mph in less than a mile.. o_O
     
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