Where is everyone #5

I run alot of 2 lane over 80k. I run direct, 7lo at 55 in the Buckeye. My oil changes never go past 10k. Uses about 1gal of standard mineral oil between changes ever since over haul. Cover wagon and hopper. My ifta 1st quarter was 6.5. The 2019 4th quarter was 6.37. My yearly on paper is normally around 6.25. The I do my best to limit idle time. Which is fine with the wagon. However creeping to load the hopper and in line to dump its about pointless to shut it down. I have seen 8.5mpg light load with sidekit on.

I personally dont feel rpm hurts engines as much as applying load to a lower rpm. To me that's were the liner and head gasket , and rod bearings problem come from. If I drop it into 12th .86 od and try to run 55 I think I'm at 1400 and my mpg decreases. On the interstate I stay in 12th loaded, and use 13th for empty and going really fast. I understand some manufacturers will not agree with me. They push this low rpm for economy. But I dont sell engines either.

This is just my opinion. Not trying to say I'm right.

 

Thanks for that, good info for comparison.

I always do 10k mile oil changes, almost never have to add oil, but if I do it seems like it's because I've been pulling more grades and spinning her up for longer periods of time.

If I get a 3 or 4 week stretch of easy riding I think my oil consumption is better.

Just wondered if it was related?

 

Time for an oil change.

Also got the engine and trans and t case all in the truck and bolted in. Now its just plumbing and electrical left.

 

That is why to me you operate above rated torque and pull it down to peak torque. Then downshift. Pulling a grade. But accelerating on flat ground you dont need max rpm to up shift. Every engine and gear train combo has its happy range. I drive them all reguardless of brand the same way. Just adjust your values.

I know Cat have some brutal low rpm torque like no other. But you dont have to pull it down there. Also why guys curse detroit and cummins while trying to pull them down like a cat.

This is my opinion of pre 03 engines. Think I dont have to type my opinion on 04 and up engines.

 

With my limited knowledge I agree with this.

This mx13 pulls better running the top half of the torque curve than the bottom half.

Had a guy last week I was talking to ran his religiously 900 to 1400 and ran 7mpg with a 13 speed and 3.55s. My 2.70s and auto 10 would never be able to pull down that low and make those mileage numbers.

But after getting parameters changed where it won't lug down that low I've gotten 6.3mpg on average and it pulls alot better and smoother. If it had a stick and 3.55s it'd get even better.

 

Again, I'm the baby displacement, hp, & 1800rpm version.
I do 8k -10k mile oil changes. Usually get 5gal pails of OTR brand from fleet pride,15w40 conventional, sometimes OTR 15w40 synthetic blend when on sale..

Mine eats about half a gal over the course of 8-10k, average rpm 1600-1725 all day lately.. So no top up for me between changes anymore. Engine rebuild history unknown..

What's weird is when I 1st got it, I used to top it up every week about a quart. (Didn't know not to do that) When I did that, it will continue to eat a quart a week, or use about 6 quarts between PM services..

Now it levels off at the half full mark around 4k miles, & hangs there for the another 4-6k miles. Works for me..

 

You think the dude that told you he was getting 7mpg to your 6.3mpg is full of it..?

Theoretically, or what the OEM's have be pushing anyway is the auto, direct drive, & 2.XX whatever rears is the way to get better mileage.. Or so I thought..

I personally feel it could go either way.. Keeping the boost psi low seems to be key in my opinion.. Whether 2.XX or 4.10, keep the psi down, fuel mileage is up..

 

So I'm anti new steel. This is why even at 10 or 11mpg I can justify my truck. It really would take 12-14mpg and reliability improvement with drastic cut to my operating expense to get my interest in a new truck. Maybe that day will come, because I am running a business. Maybe it wont. The gear fast drive slow with low rpms is great if I owned a fleet of low wage drivers and traded trucks at 500k. With a 500k warranty its ideal. But just because fleets operate that way dont mean I will model my one truck operation the same.

 

If I had a new truck and payment, what would I have done the last 2 days anyhow?

I wish all my frame looked like that.
Does the 2017 crossmember fit in a 2000 truck? Well short answer is, it does now.