I would just sand it and tape what I couldn’t remove. Wait till Jan or Feb. Maaco half price sale every year. The reason being is, no matter how much work is done. Rust never sleeps, it’s rooted deep into the panels. Unless they’re replaced, it will come back in 3-7 yrs. A decent Maaco paint job, should come out as good as the original factory job.
What if it Snows?
Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by Dave_in_AZ, Mar 19, 2018.
Page 3713 of 26001
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If we can get a old time 1/4 inch stereo jack into that thing.... somewhere.WesternPlains, 650cat425 and Rideandrepair Thank this.
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I would find a sand blasting shop and have them blast it.
It would take them less than an hour. Get some duct tape and cardboard and tape up windows where the sandblasting will scar them.
It will save the body shop a Days worth of grinding and do a much much better job of removing the rust.
Or if they will let you work at your storage place and you have power rent a compressor for a day and DA the rust down than follow it with a sandblaster you can buy for $20.
30$ in sand would do it. Depends on whatever is the most convenient
Buy some quality spray cans of primer and immediately paint it with the primer.
You can watch sandblasted metal re corrode in front of you.
You have the ability to remove the bumpers, grille and mirrors and door locks and handles?
Remove all those and drive it to the shop. Pop out the taillights and your good to go.
Big plus you won’t be out your truck for a week or 2.
Shop should be able to spend a day sanding and priming and than Shoot it the following days.
Does it need any bodywork like dents fixed?Last edited: Apr 27, 2020
kemosabi49, Vic Firth, Rocks and 4 others Thank this. -
What does eil stand foraustinmike, Cattleman84, WesternPlains and 5 others Thank this.
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Engine
Indicator
LightWasted Thyme, lovesthedrive, Vic Firth and 6 others Thank this. -
Hes right. I had a older 70 ford with rear quarter panels rusted from the trunk corners behind them of all things. Its not the trunk lid seal, but rather the pot metal around the rear window. (Ugh...) You can sand, patch, putty, cement, pave, scrape, chip and apply BEUYOTIFUL paint there, charge a obscene amount of money for relatively idiot proof fast cheap work.
In 4 years rusted through again with the same problem. This time traced to that stupid pot metal framed window. The rubber inside had rotted.
Can you say the words....
"BILL ME OH SO MUCH!?"
Ugh. And those sharks smell blood in the water...
To this day I have a sneaking feeling a 3.00 tube of squeeze silicone would have solve that for a decade.Rocks, WesternPlains, 650cat425 and 1 other person Thank this. -
Then there’s always rust converter, and por-15. Seals it all in, keeps it at bay longer. Vinegar really works good at rust removal. Got my tools soaking now, it really works.
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BUT
You can turn your EIL into...………..
ELO
RidgeRunner731, Wasted Thyme, lovesthedrive and 7 others Thank this. -
In my old 1920's house there is a iron stairwell behind the porch. 4 times a year we chip rust and clear the spots. THEN apply that old style leaded rustoleum blue paint to the spots. Eventually it's got a coat of paint. Another and another and another. And another. 4 generations chipped on that #### thing, probably two more since we were there now.
I DO wonder... if I think on that a little bit over a coffee pot, what will it be in 100 years from now? Iron stairway? Or a Paint stairway?Rocks, WesternPlains, Dave_in_AZ and 2 others Thank this. -
I am dumb
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