Cat turbo mounting stud kit? ARP maybe? 6nz manifold one yr old . New from cat. Keeps breaking or loosing random mounting bolts and then spits out corner of gasket. 3 times in past 30k miles. Cat hardware every time. What is going on here? About 850 egg is max. Can I convert to ARP studs? I thought down pipe was in a bind and changed elbow out to correct style and replaced flex. No binding now... still breaking or losing bolts
Cat turbo stud kit
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by w9l, May 29, 2020.
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Are the studs falling out of the head/turbo? Were the stud spacers cleaned or replaced?
Cat uses stover nuts and their hardware is top quality. Never seen a stover nut loosen once installed and torqued.Diesel Dave, pushbroom, A5¢ and 1 other person Thank this. -
On our Cats we use stainless regular nuts on stainless studs.
There have been a few times the nuts came loose but I’ve learned to go back and make sure they’re staying tight as the bolts stretch with heat cycling.
Since then they’ve now stayed in place.A5¢ Thanks this. -
Diesel Engine Parts & Rebuild Kits | Highway and Heavy Parts® -
Haven't planned it. If I take it off expansion joints will leak again so , if I can't flatten it with hand files and prussian blue it will be gone.A5¢ Thanks this. -
Stud spacer? What is that? I have been getting 4 3/8x1.25" non magnetic black cat bolts and 4 shiny steel Cat locknuts or stover nuts and a gasket. That's it.
I almost think they are snapping. I think the top rt hand bolt is the one that leaves every time the more I think about it. Just wonder if possibly the back side of manifold flanges where bolt head or nut seats might not be parallel with seating surface where gasket goes and putting sort of a side load on bolt? -
You'll need to get a 3/8" drive wobble extension from HF and then grind the waist down a little bit more so the socket can angle a little more. Use the thinnest/shortest 12 point socket you have.w9l Thanks this. -
w9l Thanks this.
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I ended up making a 2" offset torque adapter by taking a 12pt box end wrench and cutting it off short enough that when I welded the female 3/8 drive part of a socket to the end of it the distance between the center of the box end and 3/8 drive part is exactly 2". Then use one of the online calculators that tells you what to set torque wrench at to achieve the desired 35 ft. lbs. torque. The way my turbo is designed there is really no room for a socket and any extension on the top forward bolt .
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Also, had a old timer cat mechanic that I have a great deal of respect for instruct me to lift up on the turbo itself prior to torquing fasteners so that the weight of the turbo is resting on the bolts in such a way to side load them. I sat a chunk of 2x6 on top of hoses running along frame rail and used a small bottle jack to support turbo in such a position. I lifted it no higher with the jack than what I could by hand. Just couldn't lift by hand and tighten things at the same time.
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