Carrier bearing problems

Not all bearings are created equally, if you are using a lessor quality you get what you pay for. I would try a Meritor brand, be sure to get the the better quaity one and not the $40.00 one. I believe the part number is CB210121-1XSA. Be sure the old shields and parts are removed from the shaft, install the new bearing, If you dont have a way to press it on and you are using a punch be sure not to hit anything except the race. when you push the shaft back up the bolt holes should line up with out prying or forcing, if they dont you have alignment issue. If all is good check your suspension bushings.

 

Timing a driveline is nothing new. It means clocking the 2 joints the same via the slip yoke. Mis aligned, and it will cause a vibration. Doubt it would hurt the carrier bearing.
Id say check the slots in the mounting holes to verify they're close to the middle with the bolts in.

 

After I rereading my post twice I understand the sarcasm, I ment don't be afraid of a grease gun in general. Sorry

 

I just put one in my dump truck 2 winters ago and its starting to vibrate now. I think that is a bit excessive. The one vibrating now is the 3rd one in 4 years.
The 2nd one didn't last 2 months. They ain't that bad to change but that yoke nut comes off hard all the way. I use a 3/4 socket with a pull handle to take it off and put it back on.
I need a 2.5 inch socket for the 1" impact.

 

You mentioned that the u joints are new. How about the yolk? They wear out and the round holes for the u joints become egg shaped, which could cause excessive play and wear out your carrier bearing

 

I thought Id try a Urathane orange carrier this time and see how that goes. I installed it in 2 hrs and 10 minutes by myself even with breaking a 12 point half inch socket and looking everywhere for another one. That's one place you still have to have a 12 point socket, its those bolts that hold the universal clamps on.
After sawing the first bearing off with the pole off the truck and 2nd bearing off while on the truck a few years ago trying to be ready to haul next day, I went strait and ordered a 9 inch - 3 jaw bearing puller. There are some things you just know you do not ever want to do again. That 3 jaw puller will get that bearing off quicker than you can get the it in place and locked down.

One question, can the yokes be 180 degrees out and cause vibration? I'm talking about having yokes perfectly aligned but 180 from where they came off because they didn't get marked before removal.

 

Sometimes it makes a difference. If you feel a vibration you didnt have before, I'd put it back like it was and try it again.

 

Phasing should still be ok with it out 180°

The issue may be that if the shaft was balanced as an assembly (which is usually the case), you've now put the shaft assembly out of balance.

 

Hi AmodelCat and SL3406!
Turns out I had a bad bearing in the output shaft coming from the Transmission. I could push up on the yoke right at the transmission and the shaft was loose enough in the bearing to make a click click sound so its in the shop now.

Ever since I had a trans cooler failure last year and filled the transmission up to the point of flowing out the bell housing, the synchronizer has been grinding.

If the tranny is completely shot as the shop assumes with the water and all, I'm hoping to swap the 8LL for an 18 if all goes well.
If it doesn't cost that much more. I've been wanting to try an 18 and the ratios aren't all that different just a hole lot more choices with the 18.

 

Thanks I'll try that. I can't get the nut off now. It was loose when I took it off 1st go and when I put it back on with red loctite sparingly, I could put a foot on the pull bar putting it back on.
I have to pull up on it to get it off. I think the Transmission shop must of double checked it with a 1" impact. Its tight enough to bust a 3/4 drive wrench now. I didn't bust it but I knew not to go any farther.
3/4 air impact won't touch it either.

We have a 1" tire impact but no 1-5/8 socket for it.