Trailer wheel ends

Thanks because I did not know that. Have just been using a torque wrench any why. Food for thought.

 

I'll give you more food for thought.
Every hub manufacturer has specific procedure for hub bearing adjustment. Some PreSet hubs with sleeve require 300 fp torque but some only 200 fp. Same with unsleeved hubs. Depends on hub axle nut tread size torque and backing are different.
And the last thing is if you replaced original OEM nuts with ProTorque nuts, you have to disregard manufacturer specs and follow ProTorque recommendations.
All information is easy to find in internet.
P.S. DON'T GET BE VICTIM OF YOUTUBE VIDEO.
Many guys do it wrong!

 

Everybody wants to skip last step of bearing adjustment, verify endplay with a dial indicator.

 

I dont know about this.........

Are you saying if you put a pro torque nut on a LMS hub assembly you would not torque it tight to the same spec as OEM?

The largest mistake I see is LMS hubs coming in backed off and loose. I chalk this up to old schoolers or ineperienced failing to correctly identifying new hub types. The industry has simplified the process of wheel end maintenance, but it still gets mucked up.

I agree with everything else you said. Identify the wheel end and follow procedure.

 

Yes, ProTorque is always 0.001 - 0.002 if you follow procedure and use torque wrench.

 

Timken has a torque chart, that I use. It’s similar, but seems a little bit more detailed. Good info on their website.

 

I just wanted to contribute to the topic of bearing adjustments. I replaced all 6 of my wheel hubs. I used stemco one piece protorq nut. Now new hub said to tighten the single nut to very high torque and leave it. protorq obviously said to back off. Well, between competing directions I went with protorq and boy was I wrong. So following hub directions, if you tighten all the way, the wheel does not spin freely. For some reason that goes away once you drive a little bit and its fine. But if you back it off, there is 80% chance the inner seal will leak! I had to re-tighten 4 of 6 hubs on the road, sometimes on the side of the road because almost all of them leaked. With one, I had to replace the inner seal because tightening it after the leak didnt stop the leak. So my advice: if the hub instructions call for max torque and no back off, do that. Drive 50-100 miles and see if the wheel spins freely. Do not back off!