All good, I do get your humor but will point out a few things.
TLDR: I run slow enough I couldn't give a rip about most of the aero B.S.
Grab a frosty beverage for this spewage..... Warning @Cattleman84 needed 2 beverages to get through this, Please plan accordingly.
Some of the cab overs in Europe test better in wind tunnels than conventional tractors. The only part that really matters is from the front view the perimeter foot or so that transitions from front face plane to the side/top planes. On a conventional that would be: the top of the radiator shell and top of the windshield to the roof, the side of the radiator shell to the side of the hood/ drivers door area, And the front fenders. Other than that don't hang extra stuff in the air stream that you don't need.
Mid roof is for driver comfort. If I can't stand up in the P.O.S. I aint going to drive it. let alone buy it.
That smooth line up from the windshield to the mid roof line is better aerodynamically than the multiple steps you see at the top of most add on sleepers. Most of the "add on" sleepers don't have a smooth floor to the cab. I can't remember how many times I landed face first in the bunk of my old T660, and concussed my self on the edge of the roof trying to get into the drivers seat from the sleeper.
The most likely highest yield for aerodynamics will be at the back of the trailer. Hence the aero kits back there are popular. For a van the trailer aero is more important than the truck. Just don't do stupid stuff on the truck.
The best I can do shoving that box through the air is eliminate all the crap hanging off the sides of the tractor, hence the exhaust on the back of the sleeper. Next would move would be skirts to smooth out the airflow over the tanks. Will need a diverter on the roof to pop the wind over or around the trailer.
Gap between the trailer and sleeper is another culprit, and why I want the shorter wheelbase. Figure an adding on the air tab turbulators to the back edge of the sleeper fairings.
To point out the most obvious thing of all....... Aero enhancement is trivial until you get up to the 60 to 70MPH zone. Keep the speed down in the 60-65 range and it stays much less important. I just can't justify 50 to 55 on an open road.
One of the big discussions for any changes/upgrades for a truck based on fuel economy is ROI (return on investment). The 55mph speed limit (where I run 60 to 62) increases the time it takes to pay for the add-ons to the point some may never pay for themselves if the trailer is run legally.
Long story short: If the load requires higher speeds, don't take a load that dose not pay enough premium to run higher speeds. Basic business decision.
What if it Snows?
Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by Dave_in_AZ, Mar 19, 2018.
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