Where is everyone #5

I was leaning towards 18 but not sure what 18 to go with. Trying to make heads or tails of the model numbers.

I've gathered that an RTLO20918B is a 2050 capacity 18 speed with a 16th being direct.

Also see an RTLOF20918B but can't find anything about what F means

 

I know that an O after RT usually means overdrive. The first 2 numbers are torque rating and the last 2 numbers are speeds. I had found a model number decododer awhile back but can't find it now.

 

If memory serves me, the F is a Fuller unit.
No F would be an Eaton unit.
What exactly is the difference, don’t know.

 

Exactly. He's consistently running 80k+, splitting the bottom will help a lot. He'll also get longer life out of the drive train, and less wear on the engine.

 

I'm not gonna say it has not been done. I'm not gonna say I have not done it either. But if you can get on level concrete, do it. First time a wheel sinks in that plywood, or the front wheels come off the plywood and gets stuck, or tries to flip the trans and jack over under the truck. You will wish you didn't. Let alone trying to put them back in, you want smooth, level surface. You do not want resistance reinstalling. You don't know if your binding in the clutch, or stuck on plywood. Then your forcing things. You want it to just slide together.

One, or two truck operation is hard to justify a good trans jack. Try and borrow one. Those cheap ones are junk. But in that fld, I would do rear engine mounts while trans is out, and all fuel lines. Rear main seal is a must. If it was mine I'd change starter at the same time. If I dont know the starters age.

Take all air tanks off by the bracket to frame. You will need this to get it out from under the truck, and give yourself room. Still might have to jack rear for removal.

But sounds like you should get it working correctly and make some money before buying a new trans.

 

The plan is to try to get it working correctly. I've narrowed it down to an internal hang up.

I'm guessing its had fuel lines done at some point because the valves to switch tanks are gone and it's been T together to draw and return to both tanks together and one of them appears fairly new.

The trans has been out for one reason or another based on how half assed some stuff is that I've found so far and the fact that the electronics on the trans have been color coded with zip ties.

 

Classics didn't have shut offs unless someone specifically ordered them. Normall just equal flow valves on top of trans.

My personal preference is a RTLO with torque range to cover engine. To many guys go overboard. They will take way more power than rated. If your 90% on the road and 100k and less a 13 is fine. Off road or pulling from fields a 18 is nice. Regularly on road at 120k plus, you will want to split those low gears.

We do similar work, a 18 has no advantage over the 13 in my situation.

But if that what you want, get one so your not disappointed.


BTW if it happens to have the thin long cooler mounted up in front of bunk air ride? Don't even call for a price unless you want a heart attack. Get the eaton brkt and cooler kit that mounts to the back section. It hangs down and gets better air flow. But not lower that steer axle or diffs. So its never been a clearance issue for my pavement princess.

 

It's got a bracket above the battery box that is labeled for fuel shut offs so I thought it had them at some point.

No cooler or anything like that. There's a hose connecting what I'm guessing is the in and out ports for what should be a cooler.

It stays on the road but it also might see some fields during harvest. Dad ran harvest for a guy last year and hoping to put my truck and his on it this year.

I'll let it ride with the meritor if I can get this range selector issue figured out and fixed. Hopefully the issue thats causing it to not shift into high is also the reason it's grinding. If not then it'll need more work and I'll deal with it until I can get an 18 to put in it.

I'm hoping I can get it to work to still use it vs it just failing completely and not be able to go to the high side at all without a major repair and a decent chunk of money.

 

@Lysdexis see if you can PM Nasriza. I seem to recall he's quite good with the Meritor transmissions.

IMO an 18 will be great for resale value.

 

I agree. The meritor was the only thing I wasn't thrilled about but everything else being exactly what I was after I figured I'd deal with it until I could swap it. Which may be sooner than later if the range selector issue turns out being a major tear down fix