Removing sleeper extenders

Discussion in 'Peterbilt Forum' started by onetime42, May 4, 2021.

  1. onetime42

    onetime42 Light Load Member

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    I currently own a 2007, 379 extended hood and I want to remove the sleeper extenders from the 63" stand-up sleeper. My question is, I can probably remove them but I need to know if I can simply fill in the missing rivet holes with rivets using a cheap 3/16 air hydraulic riveter from Harbor Freight? The gun is only $50 and seems like it should solve my issue unless I'm missing something? Or should I take the alternate route and just buy a sht load of 1/4 inch flat headed bolts to use in place of the old ones?
     
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  3. scoobertdoo

    scoobertdoo Road Train Member

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    JB weld, sand and paint?
     
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  4. onetime42

    onetime42 Light Load Member

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    So don't bother filling in the holes with rivets? I know when it comes to removing that big fiberglass piece at the top corners that'll require a visit to the body shop but I was hoping to save a few bucks by filling in those holes with rivets.
     
  5. scoobertdoo

    scoobertdoo Road Train Member

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    I'm not sure that rivets are waterproof
     
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  6. onetime42

    onetime42 Light Load Member

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    I would add some silicone in the holes prior to installing them. I just want some advice from someone that has done this project before so I don't screw it up.
     
  7. lester

    lester Midwest's #1 Feed Hauler

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    You need to use something in those holes. It holds the sleeper together. I just used rivets. If you want you could sand the rivet a bit and fill with bondo for a smooth look or just sand and heavy paint. On the bunk I did it was NOT painted under the fairings FYI
     
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  8. spindrift

    spindrift Road Train Member

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    Just curious is all. Why do you want to remove the extenders?
     
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  9. onetime42

    onetime42 Light Load Member

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    I've never liked how they look and just want them gone. It's a much cleaner look too.
     
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  10. wore out

    wore out Numbered Classic

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    Personally I think rivets look trashy. You can pick them out from a 100 feet and see there different. I realize you have to pull the interior to install huck bolts but since the job is about looks isn’t it worth doing right?

    when the rivets go to leaking how will that make it look?
     
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  11. onetime42

    onetime42 Light Load Member

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    Go 4 floors up and read what I was planning on doing when installing them so they don't leak. I'll probably end up using huck style bolts then and removing the interior to do it right.
     
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