Clutch adjustment,,,,,,

You’ll just need a flat blade screwdriver or pry bar and a 5/8” socket or wrench.

It’s a good idea to check your clutch brake for wear and replace if needed.

There’s some good YouTube videos on how to adjust your clutch that you can view.

 

Cut a wood 2x4 long enough to fit between the seat and pedal to hold the clutch pedal down right before the “squeeze” spot on brake so you don’t need to climb in and out of cab or need a helper.

 

Buy a starter button from tool supplier, and a adjustable hood prop. Key off hook starter button to start B+, and signal post. Hood prop on clutch. 5/8 deep well and pry bar for easy pedal. 9/16 for value clutch, or spanner wrench for manual lug type. Make all internal adjustment to set 1/2 air gap between brake and release bearing. This adjust free travel, may need to increase or decrease slightly depending on application. Then adjust linkage for 1/4 air gap between fork and bearing. I personally use a old hand file that measure correctly. The 1/2 i eyeball, but have made a fork out of bolts and a leveling rod for employees to have a gauge.

Make sure no one screwed with pedal stop to change things.

 

Drive square of a long 1/2" drive extension is literally the perfect tool for measuring the clearance.

 

Don't touch the linkage. Not unless someone before you messed around with it. All adjustment "should" be done at the clutch itself.

 

No linkage adjustment controls clutch brake squeeze.

 

If you ever get the chance to adjust a clutch on 1955-72 Pete or a Diamond T let me know how to adjust the brake squeeze by pedal or linkage. The pedal goes straight thru the toe board and down to the cross shaft. Directly bolted to it like a farm tractor.

I’ve always done like the old book that came with the truck. Hold pedal down with stick and adjust ring till there is 2”-2 1/2” free play and 1/8” gap between throwout bearing and cross shaft claws. The brake gap has always been very close to 1/2” give or take that way.

 

Pull or push type clutch?