09 D13 loses power pulling, no codes

Discussion in 'Volvo Forum' started by neverhome79, Jan 18, 2014.

  1. Misterj313

    Misterj313 Bobtail Member

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    Aug 10, 2018
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    Leak in the exhaust manifold behind the turbo. Maybe the egr position is causing the boost loss with that?
     
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  3. Car Runner

    Car Runner Bobtail Member

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    Jul 29, 2013
    Utah
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    When you say it was the seventh injector...you were having power loss issues at a certain rpm? Replaced the 7th injector and that fixed your problem?
     
  4. Truckwork2461

    Truckwork2461 Bobtail Member

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    Feb 10, 2021
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    Egr cooler leaking or you could also have boost leaks which will cause further issues to the exhaust system if you wait it out. Such as a clogged/failed dpf, egr cooler, turbo, and ultimately the engine.
     
  5. dms6789

    dms6789 Bobtail Member

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    Jun 21, 2021
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    Had same issue, gradual loss of power/mpg over 2-3 weeks. I had an intake manifold leak between ECM connector and bottom intake manifold on drivers side because a lower intake bolt vibrated loose. Look for tell-tale black soot marks around all intake fittings/pipes and exhaust side pipes/fittings around turbo/egr. etc. I changed the intake gasket out/replaced intake hardware and also metal oring seal on egr cooler pipe. Took me from 5.0mpg back up to 6.8-7.0 @65mph with 48k on deck.
     
  6. whtownejr

    whtownejr Bobtail Member

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    Feb 8, 2023
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    Mind if I kick up this old thread?

    2009 Volvo 880 with D16, 18 spd. 548,000 miles.
    Power loss issues are pretty much the same as everyone else. Low end, no problems, after 35mph (or high side) it seems sluggish to gain rpm, when loaded, even only 25k on my back, going up hills, it has full boost on the guage until 1600 rpm then the boost goes down to less than half on the guage.
    Even coming into the bottom of a grade and laying into the throttle to get momentum for the next grade, while down hill or at the flat before uphill in 7th low at 45mphish.... it still won't quite get over 1600 rpm.
    Go along on the flats, it'll do 75 at 1800 in upper high 8th. Fuel mileage is down to 4.2 average.
    Code for insufficient EGR flow however EGR was replaced 15k miles ago. DPF baked out at 500k. Regen regiment is normal changed water sep / fuel filter twice with no change. Air filter new. No obvious fuel leaks or cac leaks. Starting is normally fine however once in a while it takes extended cranking by 10 seconds. Someone made reference to a screeching noise.... on startup, I do here a screeching from the turbo area however with the fan and the volume of the screech.... very hard to pinpoint where it's coming from. It goes away suddenly after a minute if running and returns from time to time while driving. Almost sounds like an alternator seized and the belt keeps spinning on an old for 7.3 if you've heard it.
    Seems to have a little more power when it Regens but not much different.
    No smoke at all out the stacks during any operation, cold mist trails on really cold days (20's ) when cold.... you can get some bluish/mostly white smoke during a regen if you lay into the throttle in topside low 7th at 50mph.
    No oil in the antifreeze, no antifreeze in the oil, no fuel in the oil, no skipping or running rough..... however when it does have the extended crank to start when cold soaked, it will start smooth, if youbraise the idle it will get rough like it's missing on 2 cylinders but clears itself within a minute. If it doesn't clear on its own, shut it down and restart and it's smooth.

    Local mechanic can't seem to figure it out and I'm quite a ways from a volvo dealer.
    This was my daily but my back up now.... with a massive spacer oil leak on my isx15 in the pete, I'm back to rockin the Vulva for a bit and would LOVE to figure this out without just tossing parts at it
     
  7. loudtom

    loudtom Road Train Member

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    Aug 26, 2016
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    Follow the outlet pipe from the EGR cooler until you find the pipe with a sensor on it. Mine is underneath the coolant expansion tank on the front of the engine. If you remove the sensor on the pipe, there will be two holes underneath it. The ports can get blocked by soot over time and need to get cleaned out. That sensor is what measures your EGR flow. The pipe is the venturi pipe and the sensor is the EGR differential pressure sensor (EGR delta P).

    What are your exhaust temperatures when you begin to lose boost? My D16 would stop building boost if it got near 900F. My problems were a combination of bad EGR valve and a bad injector. My truck has always run rough if I try to high idle while cold, so I just let it warm up on its own and it runs fine.
     
  8. whtownejr

    whtownejr Bobtail Member

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    Feb 8, 2023
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    I failed to look a tad higher at the egt but I'll pay more attention, headed out now to move equipment. Past 2 days has been a hydraulic line project on a newly acquired p.o.s. auction trailer (trail king 80 ton flip tail equipment trailer) Every #### line...smh. found a ton of wiring issues too. Glad I flipped it on its side to do this.
    I'll definitely report back. I won't have time to check your recommendations until Saturday...mostly concentrating on the trailer and hoping the Pete 367 gets back very soon
     
  9. whtownejr

    whtownejr Bobtail Member

    3
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    Feb 8, 2023
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    No matter how I drive it, egt's stay at 600, even lugging up the mtn
     
    loudtom Thanks this.
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