'07 Columbia no in cab lights/bunk power help!

So I have a 2006 frightliner century and in the past i ran into lvd problem and i bypassed it and it worked for a year or two. Well now as soon as i put a fuse in my bypass it blows it instantly. And now my ISO in my passenger side fuse box is grounded out i have no power coming from it. I had a bit of melting in my fuse pannel behind driver seat idk if it was before or after my lvd bypass. But half of fuses in pannel still work mainly bottom half though. My 50 amp fuse at the foot of passanger below blower motor is blown but im thinking why replace it when my ISO is grounded out it will just blow it instantly... Idk if it is related but about a week before my lvd bypass failed me i started getting a no charge flashing intermentently on my dash it never stays solid and sometimes dissapears but I have a steady voltage on my inverter and on my multi-meter when connected to battery's. Please help!!!!

 

might be very possible you have something grounding out iso citcuits, to find where it is happing will be a pain.

 

So I replaced mega fuse by passanger feet and get power back to iso bolt.
0. ACC
0. IGN
0. ISO
0. Battery

Replaced all fuses linked to ISO well after like a HR or so I tried to turn the back sleeper A/C on thru switch on the dash and it still turned off right away. Only other thing i noticed wasn't working again was the light on back of cab it didn't turn on at all but I never checked to see if i even had power to it to be honest. Well right after I tried A/C a few minutes later I smelled smoke again behind driver seat, sure enough i melted a little more of the fuse pannel and had to disconnect the blue and green clips that plug into the side of that fuse box!!!!! I immediately unplugged every fuse I'd just put in. The clips were extremely hot and the green clip was partially melted itself. Please help does anyone know what the blue and green clips plugged into the right side of fuses box behind driver seat go to I can't find info on it anywhere any help greatly appreciated....

 

I have the same problem, with those plugs being hot. I’m guessing it’s a short or grind loss in the bunk wire harness somewhere. I was actually looking for info on how to get to the main bunk harness, when I came across this post. I’ll let you know if I find anything

 

Well crazy thing is it lost power to the bolt again iso but fuse by feet panel is still good and now crazy #### had to put a jump wire from a good fuse spot to one of the iso fuse spots that didnt have power and it gave me my hot back to my iso bolt..... Remember before I replaced the mega fuse by feet it kept blowing my fuses when i would try and jump one of the iso fuse locations like utility lamp, cigar, dome lights, opt 1 or any of them it would instantly blow my fuses..... So now its back to how i orginally had it to begin with when I got the truck

 

Also found out atleast one thing green plug does..... Its your ground for your utility light on back of cab and to your back running lights/blinkers on the cab

 

Sounds like the low voltage shut off to me as well when mine went out none of the exterior marker lights work either just the headlights all you got to do is connect both red leaves to one bolt if you don't want to replace it mine's been running like that for 70,000 miles just don't leave your light on inside or you're screwed that was the whole purpose of it they're not that expensive to replace . Tested by jumping it with the thick gauge wire I tried it with a paper clip and it got red hot lots of amperage going in there. If you have the small flap storage or garbage can in front of the Gator gear shift simply remove it and you can reach in there without tearing the dash apart. I don't know about replacement you would probably have to remove the dash bottom to do that. My fix is simply a bypass. Good luck to you

 

Sounds like the low voltage shut off to me as well. Looks like a small power inverter. If you remove the garbage can / storage compartment in front of the gear shift you can look in there with a flashlight. There's two red leads run a thick jumper wire between them to test. I first tried it with a bent paper clip which got blowing red hot. Lots of amperage coming in there. If the lights come back on that's your issue. I bypassed mine by unbolting both wires and holding them both to the same lug to secure. No problems for 200,000 miles. Keep in mind it serves a purpose. If you leave your cooler plugged in or other accessories or lights on your batteries will drop to nothing. The low voltage shut off shuts accessories down about 12.5 volts so you can at least start the vehicle. They're not a whole lot of money. However I don't know if you can replace it without tearing a whole bottom of the dash apart. Also when mine went out all marker lights on the outside went out as well. Only the headlights still worked. That's my quick fix good luck to you!!