Clutch nightmare

Just to build on the above point. I've come across automotive brake master cylinders that stick and leave the brakes partially applied. Can't see why something similar couldn't happen with a hydraulic clutch setup.

 

I’ve updated all of my tractors with the Eaton easy pedal clutch non-auto adjusting. I like them a lot Bc they are easy to adjust when it becomes time. 5/8 shallow socket and ratchet much easier then the old style with the teeth. I have not owned a auto or self adjusting clutch, that’s why I’m curious to know from Ridgeline if switching away from the auto adjust was his issue? Midwest’s issue does seem linkage related, but maybe it’s Bc that linkage needs auto adjust. I don’t know seems to go against old logic. But newer style designs have newer problems

 

I think my truck has had 3 clutch replacements. Every single on of them would slip if into the HP in higher gears. After a thousand miles or so it would quit and be good to go..
My shop said try to not slip it and it will be fine after a few miles and he was right.

I've told this to many people over the years and most look at me like I have 2 heads but I swear it's true.

 

kenworth has an optional air assisted clutch pedal could be assisting when it’s not supposed to
one my old peterbilts i have switched over to eaton self adjusting clutches with no problems
as fare as the flywheel being surfaced to many times the bolts on the flywheel will contact the clutch disk when it’s been surfaced too far and you will know something is wrong
i never use anything but a new eaton clutch as i do all the work with my mechanic and i’m not doing it twice.
i have 1 driver that runs a dump truck that can get 8 plus years out of a clutch and so can i we only use the clutch to get started

 

15" BUTTON CLUTCH 7 SPRING 308925-82 - PeteTruckParts.com: Peterbilt Parts Online

I got this clutch in all 4 of my trucks. Trucks are set to 1850tq and they work just fine

 

Friend with an older Western Star has an auto adjusting clutch replaced with a manual. It started slipping right away, after a lot of head scratching and the thing being in/out a bunch of times they figured out they needed different linkage or maybe s different throw out or asdprted pieces to change to manual? It was a couple years ago so my memory is a little vague? Maybe have them check that?

 

If slipping it is not disengaging. Bet there is a difference in overall thickness between the two

 

The easy pedal is a manual adjust with a lighter pedal feel for mechanical linkage. Its really not needed on your application since the hydraulic linkage has a air assist for light pedal feel anyhow. The reason why a solo is recommended is that it is hard for a driver to feel the freeplay loss to identify when an adjustment is due. A skilled driver will notice the loss of clutch brake and notice adjustment is due.

I would lean toward the master cylinder or a blockage in the hose assy causing residual pressure being held on the servo. Gonna be hard to catch during operation.

I have seen cases of this when the clutch comes in with the pressure plate purple, but appeared to be in adjustment. The entire hydraulic system was replaced due to being unable to determine the root cause.