625 was fine. Hit the streets in the industrial park and it sucked. Just about got stuck in 4wd with the diff locked at a stop sign.
Where is everyone #5
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by DDlighttruck, Aug 27, 2017.
Page 17455 of 22021
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singlescrewshaker, jamespmack, PoleCrusher and 6 others Thank this.
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Did you put the transmission in neutral when selecting 4wd? Can't remember but I think it won't shift unless in neutral.Flint1, singlescrewshaker, jamespmack and 7 others Thank this.
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When it was working before I didn't have to put it in neutralFlint1, singlescrewshaker, shooter19802003 and 7 others Thank this.
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Good deal on the tuner, glad you like it. Nice mpg gain too. We gained about the same mpg after putting the tuner on the 99. About .75mpg gain
Went from 460hp to probably about 525ish
What HP was yours from the factory?
Same here not a powerhouse but deff a noticable gain. Went from dropping a full gear on the hills to just splitting to 8L. Most of the hills around here besides a few we never move the stick on both trucksLast edited: Dec 8, 2021
Flint1, singlescrewshaker, Lostkeys and 6 others Thank this. -
That's awesome, good for her!
My understanding is that they're advancing the timing to gain the power and efficiency while maintaining emissions compliance by fueling based off of MAP sensor readings.
I've always enjoyed the results of bumping timing on mechanical diesels so I expect somewhat similar results. They sound much better with some timing in them!Flint1, singlescrewshaker, Tug Toy and 9 others Thank this. -
Quite a few issues with those. Best to have a code scanned.
Most common is the position sensor in the transfer case actuator. There is lots of documentation and a bullitens. The actuator itself can be removed and disasmbled and a new position sensor installed. Or install a rebuilt actuator. Sensor last time I did one was only 60$ cheaper for the sensor then a new actuator.
Those transfer cases have big issues. Its a 246 autotrac.
The bearing for the pressure plate can fail. To diagnose that drain the fluid and see how many parts fall out.
The oil pump is held into the case by a very small clip. If that it breaks ( and it does) the pump will rattle and wear a hole thru the case, about 4" ahead of the rear seal.
There is a case saver you can buy to repair that.
Either way, change the oil, use the blue autotrac fluid from gm.
I never liked the auto function, its either slick enough for 4wd or it isn't.
Attached is a net pic of the stock pump retainer and case saver.
singlescrewshaker, PoleCrusher, jamespmack and 8 others Thank this. -
Shifting in and out of neutral must be done stopped and in neutral.singlescrewshaker, PoleCrusher, jamespmack and 6 others Thank this.
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Pshhh, I got this. GM is an easy fix. Just drop it off at the salvage yard and walk away.....problem solved. Your welcome.D.Tibbitt, singlescrewshaker, PoleCrusher and 7 others Thank this.
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Well, I'm actually ashamed to take this down the road. They do it all there for you. Then you pull out and away you go......but not really. As soon as I got out I about ####. I hate straps over tarps for one. The way they strapped it sucks. They tossed about 20 bungies on. So redo theirs and toss more on. I get to the overlap and I was like....where the hell is all my tarp at? Keep going with the bungies and get to the back....ohhhhh.....crap......there it is. My flap is even with the deck. You gotta be kidding me. .....why was that a good idea. So, I made the most of it. This load is going 350 miles, I'm not going to retarp and restrap for that. Just sucks. And again.....loaded right next to a Conestoga. FML!
I'm actually ashamed of this. Glad I didn't do it, but I still have to take it.
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Thanks for all that info, got a place to start looking now.
I didn't know that about neutralFlint1, singlescrewshaker, shooter19802003 and 5 others Thank this.
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