Brakes "S Cam's "

Your brake proportioning valve could be malfunctioning, too- common problem on that model. That valve changes your braking if you're bobtailing, it makes the rear brakes apply more pressure, front brakes apply less pressure. I wouldn't have known about this- but had a 1995 FLD that WOULD NOT STOP at random. Had to stand on the brakes sometimes to make it stop when bobtailing. It could be hard to stop at one redlight, a couple of hundred yards later it could stop just fine.

Even some shops and dealers don't know about the proportioning valve-some used trucks end up having a second life as dumps, straight trucks- yard trucks- and the valve needs to be removed if the unit won't be pulling a trailer. Imagine a dump grossing 46,000 lbs that won't stop.

Not sure what tests you can do to tell if it's not working well, I just remember trying to stop while bobtailing, and pulling myself down with the steering wheel to put all 200 lbs on the brake pedal hoping to stop for stop signs and red lights.

 

Also remember it would be a lot more costly if your brakes malfunctioned and got you in an accident...............

 

I'm doing a brake job now on my 2007 M-2 for the same symptoms. New Drums, shoes, air cans, and adjusters.
One side seems to be cammed over, it's locked on - with adjuster completely removed?? Waaa?

So what do you do to get drum off? Not only never had that before,
but the other identical truck had giant discs, so I'm looking for help.
I know the cams and bushings and seals are replaceable, was hoping to just put new shoes on.

I was thinking of putting adjuster back on, adjusting it in against the clevis, and hitting the brakes, or pulling the park brake on?
Would that work? Or break stuff?
I didn't think it could be moved by hand, don't know what else to do;
any suggestions?

And I just priced out the usual places on line and local,
and surprise, the Dealer-Stealer won.
(Or at least came in within 15 bucks,
And saved 90 bucks in core charge,)
and avoided making 3 different additional parts stops.

 

This is how it's done. Put the adjuster back on, adjust it tight as it will go, then hit the brakes. It will cam over again, putting the rollers where they're supposed to be. When you hear it pop over, back off the adjusters and it should go like a normal brake job.

Cam over happens when the drums are way over spec, or the linings are less than zero. Last brake job probably put a shoe kit in without new drums. Bet a dollar the anchor pins and bushings weren't touched either.

 

I just posted a question in a dead thread from 2011, and got a response in 20 minutes. That's great!

And the pins looked like a bucktoothed beaver chewed notches in them.

 

Another thread the originator never updated, too.
What was the resolution?
Ya gotta post what happened afterward; what was the fix,
Did you go for the 800 dollar fix, shop for cheaper,
or get your hands dirty and DIY - and save big bux?
So..... What happened back in 2011 - WCM?