Clutch Sticks when fully depressed

Most of the time there is about enough room to get a pencil in between throw out and pressure plate when it's adj. Correctly?

 

I Always use a 1/2 inch Drill bit when adjusting Mine..
@MTMAUS Is it a Cable or linkage setup??

 

To me it sounds like a linkage problem, like a bel crank overtraveling, or a bad angle in the linkage. 3/8” to 1/2” at the throw out should give you 3/4” to an 1” free play at the pedal. If I had to guess I’d say someone tried to adjust the clutch with the linkage at some point, and the new clutch and throw out drove an angle out somewhere as a result.

 

I agree with all of the Above..

 

It's not an adjustment problem. Something is worn out.

When they put in the new clutch, did they also use all the parts in an install kit? Did they even use an install kit? It comes with a new fork, new bushings, new input shaft, ect.

Also, has this been going on the whole time, or just recently? You said they replaced the clutch 30,000 km ago. So did it start then, or recently? How often do you grease the fork bushings?

 

Been years since I worked on a 9200i, but like most IH I believe the linkage joints are just clevis pins and holes drilled in brackets that get pretty worn out. I remember having to weld many holes shut and re-drill to get the slop out of our old 2674 Internationals. You want 1/2" between release bearing and clutch brake first, then set the 1/8" between fork and release bearing. I somewhat remember a clevis near the firewall that could be adjusted to compensate for some of the wear.

 

For it all to work right you have to find the correct at rest position of the belcranks in the linkage and make the rod lengths fit that. If everything is right in the linkage correct adjustment at the clutch should give you proper pedal travel and free play.

 

There are grease fittings on both sides of the bell housing and on the bellcrank.
The one on the bellcrank get overlooked quite often. I like to use chain lube
on the clevis pins as well.