When to replace spring bushings?

It’s been 5 or 6 yrs. Estimates were vague. The old “however long it takes on the clock” always makes me nervous and cautious. One Shop told Me to wait till he gets his new Tiger Tool. Bought 4 ATRO ant-walk polyurethane bushings at Truckpro. $240 with tax. Labor with the cool tool was only 3 hrs. at $100. Under $600 total, including tip for Mechanics. The right rear bushing was pretty bad. The eye bolt wore the spring eye some. Installed bushing into out of round hole. Still fit tight. Same right rear bushing is showing wear again, but not moving laterally at all. Next time, probably replace the spring, or maybe some JB weld before installing.

 

Some IHC,s had spring pins that screwed into the bushings. The bushings were spot welded into the spring eye. Not a job for the meek.

Some IHC's had pins that screwed into the bushings. The bushings were spot welded into the spring eyes. Not a job for the meek.
Others press in and out. I have jigged some stuff up to press press them in and out but usually just as well to pull the springs one at a time and use a press. Rear hangers are usually trash and must be replaced.
You can check if the rear is bad by looking at the space between the the spring eye and the hanger. Often one is a lot closer then the other.
Put a small bottle jack between the spring and frame close to the rear hanger. Jack it up until it is tight. Look for the wear in the bushings when you let the pressure off.

 

When KW went away from the greasable threaded style front spring pins to those junk rubber bushings we changed a ton of them back on new trucks. We did it without removing the spring. Just the steer tire and front quarter fenders under the breathers. Didn't take a real long time. Few hours for all 6.

 

I wonder what’s involved replacing my rubber greaseless from my bushings on my old Classic. Anyone ever change them? Press fit? Any info? Rather not take springs off. If so. maybe upgrade to 3 leaf springs? What’s the difference between 12k and 13.4k front axle? Springs only?, or difference axle too?

 

I often advised customers to just replace the springs and hangers. Depending on circumstances, you can often get near the cost of new springs just replacing pins and bushings.

Often they're let go too long, and the pins have worn through the spring eye and hanger causing egg shaped holes.

Check cost of new springs before you decide. I can change the springs and hanger faster than installing new bushings.

 

On high mileage trucks the springs have usually lost some arch. If it leans to one side and the low side is replaced it will usually lean the other way.

 

You have to have some way to press them if on or off the truck. I thank it was Grape Ape that had a post about those rubber bushings. They caused irregular tire wear, vibration, or something? Believe they were going back brass?

 

Just swap them around, in 7 years they’ll both be worn out evenly. Lol. I think my right ones sagging. Might be bad bushings. I’ve yet to measure from bottom of frame to top of spring block, between U bolts. Best place is on a scale. Perfectly level. Went through that on my WS, shimmed spring, a week later the front leaf snapped at the shim. Replaced it, and the lean came back. Frame was bent from an accident 7 yrs earlier. Spent $1000 for 5 days on a frame machine. After being slowly twisted beyond original in opposite direction. It went back to original, just like the Frame Guy said it should, being tempered. I’ve heard heavy haulers frames twisting over the years. That’s funny, I bought a Truck with a twisted frame. I had found out it had been wrecked. They used it as a yard dog for a few years, before selling it as is. Explained the brand new ( paint ) look. Overall still a great Truck. I’m liable to show up at your shop with 2 new springs. Lol. I know I’d get an honest deal on the Labor, and Job would be done right.