Hi all,
Looking for some advice on an 7FB inframe. Goal is 500-550 reliable hp. Truck will be grossing 100+k lbs, 18spd 3.91 gears.
Was thinking the ipd durability kit, but have read mixed reviews on it. As it sits was leaking coolant into the sump so suspecting leaking liners but will know shortly. Pump and advance sent out for rebuild. Head will be out to be inspected and cut.
Will be replacing the nozzles ase well, wondering on that too. Don't think I want the marine nozzles but not sure if the 460 had bigger then the 425?
If anyone has a recipe would greatly appreciate it. Engine vin is 7FB95319 425 ataac. Only real current upgrade is the turbo and upgraded radiator. Running a borg 0000 with a 1.45ar.
Thanks
3406B Advice
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Mb83, Nov 23, 2024.
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Check your water pump for Gods sake.
IPD durability kit, 7W7031 nozzles STOCK timing I will stress again STOCK. The 7FB is already starting at 21 and isn’t gonna perform the best due to too much timing on those pistons below 1500. same turbo leave the screws aloneRideandrepair, cke, beastr123 and 9 others Thank this. -
For what it's worth I rebuilt one with the IPD steel top piston kit (durability) recently and couldn't be happier with it so far. I haven't put enough miles on it to vouch for durabilty though.
Last edited: Nov 23, 2024
BoxCarKidd, Rideandrepair, cke and 5 others Thank this. -
Thanks for the tips. For sure the liner o rings are leaking coolant, I did the mains this summer and there was drips of coolant coming off the backside of #5 and a bit from 4 and 6. Hoping there was no cavitation on the block and new cylinder packs will fix it. Will likely put in a new water pump while I'm at it.
So to clarify stock timing and fuel will get me in the 500s with those marine nozzles? Under 1500 to idle will it slober or wet stack with that combo? Not doubting anyone just trying to do it right the first time. Have a b model tech that will be doing the final timing setup once it's together.Oxbow Thanks this. -
I'll leave that to @wore out , but on my 4MG I had to change oilers to Emodel double squirters and shim the relief on the oil pump. You may want to change to the higher volume oil pump instead of shimming. When you get the kit the numbers will be available for the different oilers and oil pump. We can give them to you here as well if you have any problems.cke, wore out and High Stepper Thank this.
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Those are not marine nozzles. They are industrial. You bump that timing you’re gonna burn it up. Very simple. You bump your fuel you’re gonna burn it up I can’t be more clear. The 7FB has way more meat between the top ring land and top of piston with an extremely narrow bowl that’s how they stand the timing they do. The pistons you’re going to use come out of a 3408 HUEI engine. They match nothing but closely resemble the later wide shallow bowl crowns.
This makes me sound like an ### and i don’t care. You can listen to the don’t know come here from sickem crowd……or do it and be reliable.
No where in any CAT or fuel data literature can I or anyone else find where one nozzle flows more than another. The only differences are pop pressures and spray angle that’s it. The extra fuel comes from rack travel. The shallow wide bowl works best with around 14 degrees base timing then advance from there. I run a 5KJ pump which has the exact curve of a 4MG but allows me to run higher pop nozzles verses the 4MG. Pullers can advance a 7FB on these pistons because they are wide ### open and overhauling every off season. You want reliable but being honest you have the wrong set up. Put it back factory pistons nozzles with a good turbo and call it a day
when it comes to timing whether it’s 7FB or 4ZR industrial and all in between some where about 30 to 31 all in at 1900 to 2grand is all you want. So a 7FB static is ar 21 starts advance at 1500rpm and advances to 30. An early 3ZJ will be for example 11.5 with the start of advance at 1260 all in at 28 or 9 at 1800. So can you see why advancing a hair on a 3ZJ is ok….but a 7FB you run outta room quick.
Marine engines are rated at 2100 industrial are rated at 1800 so which is better in honesty for a truck?
A B will never be a hot rod it will not produce the torque at 550 that an E will. You want an E buy one.Last edited: Nov 23, 2024
MACK E-6, bjytech, little cat 500 and 11 others Thank this. -
You'll probably have pitted landings where the grommets sit in/on the top of the block under the head. The block will probably need counterbored as well.
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Thanks again for the advice. Ill be ordering the durability kit with the supporting parts needed. This is a spare/lightly used truck that will put on 10-20k miles a year. I have it torn down now and the head is cracked which im sure is the source of the coolant. #5 had a couple cups of coolant sitting in the cylinder. This was a result of it being overheated when the rad blew couple years ago im sure, just decided to use it sparingly since then. Will certainly be counterboring.
With this setup do you suggest pulling at a higher rpm and avoid pulling hard under 1500rpm? I know mech cats like higher rpm in general. Advance will be set to stock as with the fuel settings, will be watching the pyro to make sure we're not playing with fire.Oxbow Thanks this. -
I don't pull ours hard below 1500. On a long pull I try to stay above 1600.
broke down plumber and ElmerFudpucker Thank this.
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