APU Info

There has to be a device (generally a solenoid to disconnect the APU charging system if the truck is running) installed to prevent both systems charging the batteries at the same time, or there will be big problems.

Not a silly question.

 

Opinion on the APU whats the best in your opinion if you have used more then 1? and i'll be pulling a hopper bottom but i'm gonna try to do it OTR kinda......is it worth it? becase the guys that sell them are pretty good at it convincing me they are...just curious if its worth puttin it in

 

I've got an older pro-heat that i've had to replace the alternator once (a standard 30amp). I have to change the oil every 400 hours and 2 belts 2 fuel filters and one air filter every 800 hours. It costs me on average $50 every servicing. At $3 a gallon it saves me over a $1000 every 400 hours and is definitley worth it. Newer generation Tripakls have much longer intervals than my proheat and from what I hear cool a lot better. mine is just adequate cooling but my truck is black. I bought the truck used and it already had the genset on it as you know they're pretty expensive up front if you buy a new one. Some guys build their own on the cheap. Don't waste your money on the cheaper trouble prone gensets unless you dont mind pouring money and time into 500 pounds of dead weight hanging on your truck.

 

Trans-Am, as bad as they are, have nice tripack units on the trucks. the fuel savings alone is worth it.

 

My Thermo-King Tri-Pack was low on oil so I filled it (slowly) to the dip stick line. Now it cuts off after running for a few minutes. I have to reset the unit. The message says "Engine". Any experience or thoughts?

 

I realize this is from a while ago but.........Why would you want to run both at the same time? The whole point of an APU is to eliminate the need to run the big motor. And if you are driving there is no need to run the APU.

 

It seems that my APU is able to recognize when the batteries are charged so it shuts off. But the buzzer noise continues to sound and I can hear the clicking noise under the bunk like it is still trying to start.

But it will only come back on once the batteries are down to about 11 volts.

So even when batteries are fully charged, the buzzer sound is continually going on with motor not running. Motor will come back on once low-battery alarm in truck comes on to the point of shutting off aux power.

Does anyone know of a way to override whatever sensor causes it to shut down when the batteries are charged? I would like to just manually turn the motor on and off when I choose. thanks.

 

How big is rubber freeze plug for Frigette APU?