How hard are differential seals to do yourself on a Freighliner?

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by MTMAUS, Oct 26, 2025.

  1. MTMAUS

    MTMAUS Light Load Member

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    Back seal of front diff is leaking again, had a shop put a new seal in only 12 months ago.

    How hard are these things to do yourself? I have a 3/4 Milwaukee and a 1 inch short air rattle gun. Is it worth learning to do yourself or just send it to the shop again, I have never done one before

    If it leaked again so quickly, is it more likely something else is wrong, or was it not done properly last time?

    It's a freightliner with 1 million miles, any advice appreciated

    Thanks
     
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  3. 201

    201 Road Train Member

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    Well, it can be done, but a shop is much more equipped and be on your way in no time. Leaking seals is almost always from metal contamination, and you are probably looking at new axle guts soon, power divider, probably. :oops: A million miles, it doesn't owe you anything.
     
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  4. MTMAUS

    MTMAUS Light Load Member

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    Thanks, I just ordered a new diff, won't need a new seal they said the new one comes with it. Cheers
     
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  5. KDHCryo

    KDHCryo Medium Load Member

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    The problem with diff seals is weight.

    That's a couple hundred pounds you have to suspend.

    New gaskets get Permatex Aviation Gasket Maker on each side before install...

    Cause I'm only doing it once.
     
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  6. Oxbow

    Oxbow Road Train Member

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    Is it the output seal of the front driver for the inter-axle driveline?

    If so, the biggest issue in my experience can be removal of the yolk nut. It has been changed recently, so the existing nut should come off without too much trouble. Your stubby 1" gun should work. Next, you may need a thinner walled socket to fit between the yolk and nut.

    Since it has been changed recently, you will either need a new yolk or a speedy sleeve to repair the wear.

    I'm not a mechanic and only work on my own trucks. I'm also not familiar with Freightliner. There may be a crush washer or torque spec that needs to be followed.

    Perhaps we can get a mechanic to weigh in on this to confirm or correct me before you decide to go at it yourself.

    @Big Road Skateboard , @wore out , @Goodysnap , @pushbroom , can any of you guys give some pointers?
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2025
  7. KDHCryo

    KDHCryo Medium Load Member

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    Probably, your gonna need 2 lifts to hold it up while you change the 3 dollar paper thin gaskets...
     
  8. Oxbow

    Oxbow Road Train Member

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    What are you holding up with the lifts? The drive line will be out by that point. Maybe this is way different than those that have worked on before.
     
  9. KDHCryo

    KDHCryo Medium Load Member

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    The diffs (guts), you can hold the diffs up and cut the new gaskets in and out, without having to separate 'em.

    But like I said, Permatex Gasket Aviation seal on each side of the new gaskets.
     
  10. Big Road Skateboard

    Big Road Skateboard Road Train Member

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    Yeah, drop the rear driveline, pull the yoke nut (probably 2-3/16" or 2-1/4"), pull the yoke (may need a puller, usually not), use a heel bar to remove the old seal, install new seal, yoke probably has wear where the seal rides, so I would replace the yoke, I always replace yoke nuts, torque to specs or tight AF, install driveshaft with new u joint strap kits.

    And a new diff won't come with a thru shaft seal or yoke
     
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  11. Oxbow

    Oxbow Road Train Member

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    Thanks
     
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