400 BC build

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by mile marker 27, Jan 21, 2026.

  1. mile marker 27

    mile marker 27 Road Train Member

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    CPL 393, is a BC1, 400. So, my FIL found this engine(core), in an ‘80 352 Pete. It has been ran in decades. He want it built back to original CPL. Tear down process is nearly complete and I must say, the engine stand I bought is turning out to be a blessing. Everything on the bottom end looks great and the deck is in good condition, as well. Only thing I noticed was a broke compression ring, in number 1. There was absolutely no water/coolant in the pan. However, the upper bores, coolant jacket that runs to each head has a ton of rust. All the mains and Rod bearing looked ok. Liner o rings were deteriorated horribly and that’s to be expected. I’ve got the oil pump, accessory drive, oil cooler, water pump, cam followers and front cover, all off. Only thing in it still, is the cam and crank. What’s the best way to clean all this #### out of the water galleys and upper bores? I put ear plugs in the crank/rod oiler holes, to keep trash out. IMG_7476.jpeg IMG_7482.jpeg IMG_7481.jpeg IMG_7487.jpeg IMG_7490.jpeg IMG_7509.jpeg
     
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  3. mile marker 27

    mile marker 27 Road Train Member

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    Having a hard time running down an in frame kit for CPL 0393, engine serial #10832855. Interstate McBee is “Out of stock” and some of the other aftermarket manufacturers don’t even offer a BC kit. Cummins price is $2,650 and they’re checking availability. Other manufacturers are PAI, IPD, Heavy & Highway and AgriKits. I’m not to sure on those last two’s quality control. Any ideas are appreciated.
     
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  4. mile marker 27

    mile marker 27 Road Train Member

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    I got an Interstate McBee kit in. I noticed that this engine has liner repair sleeves. Now, when I order the kit, the guy asked me for piston and liner part numbers and I gave him those from the existing. I tried dropping a new liner in to check protrusion but it won’t go in, in any of the bores. I cleaned an old liner up and it won’t go in. It would if I pressed it but I don’t want to do that. What do I need to do? IMG_7606.jpeg IMG_7603.jpeg IMG_7604.jpeg
     
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  5. mile marker 27

    mile marker 27 Road Train Member

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    Here’s a pic of the part number on the old liners, beside a new liner. IMG_7612.jpeg
     
  6. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    If your block has been updated to lower press fit liners that is the way they are . Press fit. That is the area under ledge where a shim would go if you have any. The OD of the liner and the block are a press fit right there. I do not thank those came from the factory until the BCIII.
     
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  7. mile marker 27

    mile marker 27 Road Train Member

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    There no liner shims under any of the old liners and the last rebuild was done by Cummins of St.Louis, decades ago. So, I guess press them the rest of that ~3/16” in and measure for protrusion? There was some signs that they had used some kind of silicone where the liner ledge sits on the block. I cleaned and removed everything and polished with scotch brite pad. I seen a video from Stevens truck repair that it’s very critical that the proper liner puller is used to remove the liner due to the possibility of damaging or popping loose the liner wear sleeve. When I pulled these old liners, I just used the two jaw liner pullers but the deck was extremely dirty and I didn’t realize the block had these liner wear sleeves. I preciate all the help.
     
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  8. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    Press and check yes.
    We called those upper deck sleeves. In the old days Cummins would come out and install them, cut counter bores, install cam bearing sleeves and such. I have had sleeves come out with the liner. Cleaned them up like new and reinstalled them with locktite, no problem. Sleeve retainer would probably be better. If they did not move leave them alone. Somewhere along the line silicone was recommended on the liner flange. A bead about the diameter of a pencil lead on the center of the liner flange with the liner upside down. Then flip it over and install it. I believe the sealer recommendation was discontinued with lower press fit liners. It seems like cheap insurance to me and I continued using it. If you look at the head gasket there is nothing to stop a leak from the outside of the liner running down the block. That silicone is different. It had a Cummins part # but no one could tell me what it is or supply it. Mack uses a similar product on the E7's. I had been using that. Those are specifically for anti - freeze. I had some left over and used it up on hub caps and such. When it ran out I changed over to whatever I normally used. Where the two different products mixed together it started smoking.
    It would be a good idea to double check that your part numbers cross reference and or measure them. A standard 20/40 lower press fit liner will not go in a block not cut for it. There are also tools and specifications for measuring the ledge in the block. However the lower press fit liners were not nearly as bad to wear the block as standard liners.
     
  9. mile marker 27

    mile marker 27 Road Train Member

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    In that pic of both liners, the part numbers are shown on each. Old liner is 3043763 and new liner is 3055099. The folks I ordered them from used the old liner and piston numbers. I’ll double and triple check it.
     
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  10. mile marker 27

    mile marker 27 Road Train Member

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    If a liner shim is needed, are you still using the silicone? If so, are you using it in between the shim and block ledge or between the shim and liner lip? What type of silicone do you recommend? I’ve got red, blue and gray, that I use in various situations.
     
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  11. mile marker 27

    mile marker 27 Road Train Member

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    This is from an old Cummins manual; 79304714909__1EB7F9FA-A6DA-4A3A-8418-01784B44CD7D.jpeg So now, I need to find a compatible silicone, to this 3801048 Cummins silicone.
     
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