Saved From Scrap
Discussion in 'Kenworth Forum' started by AModelCat, Oct 26, 2015.
Page 80 of 83
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Was going to drill them out, then remembered I'm junking the panel anyways so who cares? All I want are the brackets and framework off it.
Last edited: Jan 31, 2026
Albertaflatbed, Rugerfan, D.Tibbitt and 8 others Thank this. -
Started working on the rear beam I welded in a few years ago. Cutting all those oval holes in the front side for access to the cab mount bolts and so I can get a bar in there to buck the rivets that hold the rear panel skin to the beam. Original panel was held on the bottom with a single row of Robertson wood screws. I will likely beef it up and run 2 rows of 3/16" rivets.
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When I start putting this thing back together I obviously have a steel frame with an aluminum panel. Would I be better off using aluminum or steel lockbolts to hold the panel to the steel frame? The aluminum frame I removed from the rear panel skin today was held on with steel lockbolts and there was no noticeable corrosion around the heads or the collars.
On the bottom of the rear wall panel I'm wondering if bucking solid steel rivets would be the best bet since the primer and paint would seal moisture out on the nice side. The back side will likely hold moisture inside the frame for a while when running in rain and probably accelerate corrosion if the rivets were aluminum.
Thoughts? I do plan on using some sort of glue or sealer between the steel frame and aluminum panels to help keep the cab weather tight and to act as a corrosion barrier. -
I haven't seen any corrosion on my steel huck rivets either. However, I do think you are smart to do something on the panels that contact the steel frame. I just found out about Huck blind rivets. They have 1/4" monobolts that are very strong. It takes a special head for your Huck gun. About $225. (Aftermarket) They also make an alum. shave head blind rivet that looks like a Huck when you touch the nail with a grinder. Byler Rivet Co. claims that Peterbilt has done this forever everywhere you wonder how they did it - it's probably a shave rivet. I ordered some but haven't tried them yet. I really like Sika-Flex 221 for a glue/sealer.
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That's the next tool on my wish list.
I've seen a couple pop rivets that might possibly be shaved head rivets on this cab but I think those were used to replace hucks or solid rivets that popped off over the years. Everything up the A-pillar on mine, along with along the top of the windshield and under the doors were solid buck rivets.D.Tibbitt, Oxbow, Feedman and 1 other person Thank this. -
Due to a worn out 1-1/2" hole saw I am done with this for today. Guess I will hit up the Newfie Speed and Sport tomorrow and get a new one.
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Here a better pic of the doors. They are all either mine or friends I started out with in the 70's. The left door is off of a scrapped 1952 LT Mack that belonged to my father in law. He had a logging company in the 60's. I had the weathered graphics made. You might be surprised how hard it is to get guys to give you a door off their truck. lolBanker, Oxbow, Albertaflatbed and 7 others Thank this.
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My A Model has aluminum C channel instead of the steel square tube for the lower frame that I see on yours. I'm pretty sure that no has ever been as deep into that cab as you are so I have to think that it might be an industrial cab - if they did such a thing. I seem to recall that you said it had 48# rears. Or maybe that's how they built them all earlier?Oxbow, D.Tibbitt, AModelCat and 1 other person Thank this.
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Original piece back there was a fabricated beam. It was rust jacked, rotted and sagged. Too far gone to save.
I had 44k SSHD Rockwells in there originally. Believe they were 5.29 gears. New diff is a 3.73.Feedman, 34kw, Oxbow and 1 other person Thank this.
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