Shop says backorder on parts & having to sit while warranty work?
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by AFC, Dec 26, 2025.
Page 85 of 126
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It can't always be where the marks are.Feedman Thanks this.
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Got it
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I was thinking that the bar should be slightly further in when the pin is out.Feedman, AFC, D.Tibbitt and 1 other person Thank this.
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My Mac 3/4" drive rode around the mines and backroads for about 6 years in my service truck. Took it in to get the calibration checked a couple years ago and it didn't require any adjustment. Always broke it down and kept it in the blow mold case it came with.Feedman, AFC, Albertaflatbed and 2 others Thank this.
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Its almost like I covered this 200+ posts ago. The pin is out too far. The bar shouldn't be out of the pin.
Here's pictures I just took of my trailer that I am currently pulling.
Pin in:
Pin out:
Notice how the pin never moves out of the rusted area where the pin has worn off the paint.
It only has like 4" of throw. It shouldn't pull the pin nearly out of the trailer.
Yes mine is on a step deck but it is the same manufacturer and the exact same mechanism and parts.blairandgretchen, Siinman, Feedman and 13 others Thank this. -
Sorry, I didn't see them then. I'll back out cause obviously I don’t have the knowledge. Looks like it ought to be way too easy to diagnose.Last edited: Feb 12, 2026
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The red arrow is at the end of the solid pin. Tapping there was already suggested. Tapping there won't do anything. Also see post 558 pic 3. The bar rotates at the pivot point/bolt. Follow from the pin down the bar to the bolt. The bar will not move back and forth, it only rotates at the bolt.Siinman, Feedman, D.Tibbitt and 1 other person Thank this.
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All good. Just a bunch of people trying ti help and posts can get lost.
@AFC my guess at this point is that somebody replaced that chamber and didn't cut down the rod. I keep them on the shelf at home but they come with really long rods so I can cut them down to match the application.
The spring in the chamber is very weak. Even on mine that gets grease every time I leave th eyard with it I still usually have to push the pins in with my foot.blairandgretchen, Siinman, Feedman and 6 others Thank this. -
Get rid of the torque multiplier. Keep the torque wrench. You can use the torque wrench as a big breaker bar if the impact won't loosen a nut. Also use the torque wrench to check your wheel studs after using the impact wrench. I used my Milwaukee impact for many years to R&R tires but it was usually just a little shy of getting nuts to proper torque. And it's piece of mind.
Take everything loose and pull the pin out and look in the hole. If the hole is lined up something in your rod linkage got messed up. Most likely you'll see the hole just isn't quite lined up..
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Page 85 of 126