DT466E Rebuilt. Ran, then no start.
Discussion in 'International Forum' started by Jonny Masters, Jan 6, 2026.
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If the pickup tube is cracked, it is an easy visual.
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Today I finally got around to pulling the pick up tube off. No visual cracks or air loss with a makeshift setup using compressed air. Side note, for some reason I can't seem to get the oil pan out from under the truck. It binds up between the axle, transmission, and front engine mount cross member. I can drop it enough to pull the pick up tube out, but I feel like it should come all the way out.
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Welcome to the joys of our world! LOL! Yes, the pan is somewhat trapped by the tube. We have to unbolt the pan and sorta let it just rest on the axle and then unbolt the pick up tube, let it fall into the pan, and then take everything out that way. Some trucks you can jack up the chassis enough so the steer axle is hanging by the springs, then support the chassis, and use bottle jacks to force down the steer springs to gain more clearance, but once you mess with that, it is just faster and easier to work with the small gap you have between the pan and block to get the tube unbolted.
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Next week I'm hoping to get back on this project. I plan to place an oil container under the pick up tube while a helper turns the engine over to see if it will pick up any oil. I'm assuming it will not, and that the oil pump is bad. Any comments on that plan?
I am sending the three faulty injectors to the manufacturer for testing while I figure out the oil pressure issue. -
The oil pump is driven by a splined sleeve that is a press fit on the end of the crankshaft. The only way I can see the pump failing would be that splined sleeve coming loose and no longer driving the pump.
There is a pressure regulator in the oil filter head and and a bypass valve in the block under the filter head. Possibly one of the valves is stuck open by a small piece of debris got in the oil system.
On another note did you replace the oil fitting for the turbo that is in the oil filter head? It has a fine screen that can get blocked over time reducing the oil flow to the turbo.
Here is a link to the repair manual for your engine:
04&up dt466 service manual.pdf -
I replaced the pump during the rebuild, and mistakenly put the wear sleeve in the wrong direction with the taper towards the damper hub instead of facing into the engine. I noticed the mistake as I pressed everything together and put a new sleeve on in the correct orientation. I also was unaware that I needed to prime the pump with grease during installing and I only coated it with assembly lube. Considering it took a long time to build pressure initially, and I'm now loosing prime, I wonder if I damaged something with the initial improper install. Possibly grooved the oil pump housing plate.
I did check the regulator and bypass valve, part #3 and #4 on page 281.. My thinking is that if the pressure bypass is damaged, I will see oil flow from my container and it will come back to the pan.
I cleaned the fitting, but I did not replace it. Should I?
You have no idea the headache I went through to try and locate that manual and get a printed copy. Lol. I finally found it online and had Office Max print and bind it. I was not going to even attempt this project without the manual. -
I would replace the fitting for the cost. Turbos are expensive.
How did you install the splined sleeve? -
I'll get it ordered. Thank you.
The manual says to inspect and only replace as required, so I did not remove the oil pump drive spline from the crankshaft as it looked to be in good condition. The part I mistakenly installed backwards was the wear sleeve in the pump assembly. -
I held a bucket under the pick up tube while my wife turned the truck over and it started to pull oil right away and then seemed to slow down. I'm not sure at what rate it should be pumping, but it is moving oil. The oil was coming right back out directly above the pick up tube though, as though it's coming from the back of the pump.
Attached Files:
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