Ok, so I have a '08 Cascadia. Ive moved my load lights to the outside of the fairings and mounted my Wilson 2000 to the side of the fairing using the existing holes for the load lights. My question is how should I ground the antenna/mount? I have run a ground wire to the mounting bolts which go through the fairing and load light mount, but since the antenna mount is aluminum, it really doesnt do any good since aluminum isnt conductive. Should I get a steel mount instead?
Antenna Grounding ?
Discussion in 'CB Radio Forum' started by WingRider, May 21, 2010.
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WingRider, aluminum IS a good conductor. Maybe not quite as good as some metals like copper or gold. However, aluminum is certainly a conductor.
FriedTater Thanks this. -
It's a very good conductor. Take a look at the high voltage utility lines on the towers. Guess what, 99.9% of them are aluminum.
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Yep you are right, what was I thinking?
johnday Thanks this. -
20 lashes, repent, repent!!

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Ok, so now that Ive pulled my head out...and have my antenna grounded. I still have very high SWR reading. I had this antenna mounted on the back of the sleeper and had "trimmed" the whip quite abit to get the SWR's right, but because the antenna was between the tractor and trailer I didnt think I was getting very good coverage. So I came up this new mounting solution, but now have high SWR's..Im thinking I probably trimmed too much off the whip and need to replace the whip. Any thoughts?
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I'm no where close to knowing much about CB's, but are you sure you're grounded? I do know you need to get to bare metal to get a ground. I use one of those vicegrip type mounts on my Fr8liners, and as long as I get to bare metal on the mirror arm, it works well. Before I went out and burned some bucks, I'd check and make sure to be on bare metal.
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I ran a ground wire from the mount to the truck frame just be sure its grounded
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That's what I did on my F250 with my antenna mounted on the plastic mirror arm. That works for me. Maybe you're right and did trim too much off.
Hopefully someone that knows more than I sees your thread.
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Using the calibration feature on the "radio" isn't "setting" SWR
Your pitching horseshoes if you believe such.
Antenna's with "stingers" are a "one time" shot,once a stick is tuned to a
chassis configuration its "used up"(if trimmed),any sort of relocation requires a new stinger and recalibration with a "PROPER" meter to achieve conclusive results.
The calibration feature"built-in" to some radio's "ONLY" zero or baseline the "radio". An additional meter is required to determine stinger adjustment(raising,lowering,trimming etc) to achieve proper SWR leveljohnday Thanks this.
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