No front signal lights

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by skman, May 16, 2026 at 12:06 PM.

  1. skman

    skman Medium Load Member

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    Aug 26, 2013
    Saskatchewan
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    2013 W900L
    Rear signals are working good on truck but front signals/hazards do nothing.
    I've checked all node fuses, relay... All good. No voltage reading at all on either side on the signal wires when using a voltage reader/test light. Dash indicator works for signal and hazard.
    I looked at the chassis node pinout diagram and those front signals run on two separate wires so I'd be surprised if both wires broke at the same time but everything else is ok.
    Could be the node I guess...but trying to check everything else before I spend that kind of money.
    Anybody ever have this problem and can point me in a direction to look?
     
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  3. Ridgeline

    Ridgeline Road Train Member

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    Most common is that the harness on the hood is missing the ground (broken wire). Try taking a wire from the ground to the base of the bulb to see what happens.

    Did you check the harness from the hood back to the firewall?
     
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  4. skman

    skman Medium Load Member

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    Saskatchewan
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    I assumed the ground was ok because the clearance lights work...just not the signal.
    Also, when I use the grounded test light and touch the signal wire...I get no reading of voltage
     
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  5. skman

    skman Medium Load Member

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    UPDATE:
    After battery disconnect was shut off overnight. They started working for about 15mins and stopped again.
    Then we turned key off and back on after a min or so... Signal works for a couple seconds and quit.
    Shut off battery disconnect for half hour and started working again.
    I'm starting to lean to towards chassis node at this point. It's sed ing good voltage while it's working... then no voltage at all
     
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  6. D.Tibbitt

    D.Tibbitt Road Train Member

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    Do u have voltage at the plug? From where the headlight assembly plugs into the harness? lot of times that harness gets rubbed thru . Had a couple trucks do that to me before...if not that, i would double check all grounds and just clean them best u can, before throwing money at a chassis node and it be something stupid like a bad ground.
     
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  7. skman

    skman Medium Load Member

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    Aug 26, 2013
    Saskatchewan
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    I have constant voltage for the marker light on the hood fenders but no voltage on the signal wire when they go out. The markers work though...even when the signal doesnt. The marker and signal have a shared ground on the plug so I'm assuming the grounds are good since the markers always work
     
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  8. IH Truck Guy

    IH Truck Guy Road Train Member

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    I would take a good look at the wiring where it makes the bend where the hood is hinged.
    I have had couple over the years that caused problems and did some erratic electrical stuff.
     
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  9. D.Tibbitt

    D.Tibbitt Road Train Member

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    Best thing u can do is just trace backwards on that signal wire until you can find some voltage. Figure out where that plug goes to and try to find some voltage there... Maybe @Goodysnap @BoxCarKidd @pushbroom might have some better ideas
     
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  10. JB7

    JB7 Road Train Member

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    Don't assume, clean the grounds and then use dielectric silicone grease or Fluid Film before reattaching. The signal is going to have more draw than a marker light. Check the output at the chassis node before you jump and replace that. Very thin wire, sometimes called back-probes, can be used to check output at the plug without disconnecting anything. I would first check the correct pin with the plug disconnected.
    If you have no voltage at the hood but at the node then the node is not the problem. If both do not have it then it is most likely a bad node.
     
  11. JB7

    JB7 Road Train Member

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    See 2 attachments, may not be exact. Pins on node for right and left side t.s. are next to each other. On the wiring diagram note what is circled in red. This stud on the inside of the frame rail feeds both sides. I would clean that first. If no change then disconnect connector B at the node and test for voltage there. Even if there is no corrosion can't hurt to use a contact cleaner such as Deoxit and apply some dielectric silicone grease before plugging it back in.
     

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