Hi all, finally got my Cummins M11 pulled down ready to start on the inframe rebuild, boy did I have fun trying to make a tool to pull the piston sleeves out, but with persistence and several modifications to the tool, I got all 6 sleeves out YIPPY. So next will be go and buy the kit, clean the block (remove remaining gaskets and grease/sludge) then start by installing new main bearings, and move onto new piston sleeves, pistons etc. I feel much better now that I have finished the tear down.![]()
Finally got my Cummins pulled down
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by AUSSIE DAVE, May 22, 2010.
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kepp us updated i have a m11 in my dump
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excellent.. post pics if you get them
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yes, m11s are very simple engines to work on, you should not have a problem doing one.
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No worries mate, i will try and keep u updated, going to finish cleaning engine this weekend and then start on re-assembly the following weekend. ( i work monday to friday so saturday and sunday are for working on my truck)
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Thanks, you got any tips, like what would u use on the sleeve seals, 15/40 or liquid soap?? and on the the bore and pistons and rings 15/40 or 2 stroke oil??
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for all bearings and moving surfaces we use Lubriplate 105 engine assembly grease.
I dont know if you can get that where you are at but its a great lubricant and keeps wear to almost none during initial cranking and startup before oil pressure is built up.
15/40 is a fail safe way to go about it in my opinion, its what I would use.
Go and take as long as possible cleaning everything, if you have a hot parts washer that uses soap try not to use it on internal engine parts, and if you do reclean them with Varsol or another parts washing solution, the problem with the hot soal is that it leaves soap stains, and that causes hot spots and increased friction in internal engine parts.
I leave this part to your discretion since you have pulled it apart and know the condition and look of the crank, but I always, always, always check my bearing clearances on mains and rods, a lot of the guys at work just torque them to spec and thats it unless it had a bearing failure. The bigger engines are more tolerant to a larger/smaller gap when it comes to that, but I do not see the damage in checking the clearances and making sure they are to spec, it will cost 4 dollars (US) in Plastigauge and maybe an hour or two extra of your time if you do it slowly.
It is peace of mind, and it being your own engine is more of an incentive to do it. Just make sure you clean the residue as well as you can before you put it together for real.AUSSIE DAVE Thanks this. -
Plastigauge I take it that this is for checking as per checking piston to valve clearances (put on piston rotate engine etc, etc), but you use it to check bearing to crankshaft instead. Also thanks for the other info very helpfull, P.s I will be useing lucas oil stabiliser as assembly lube on bearings. once again, thanks mate
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http://s1030.photobucket.com/albums/y362/dcarvolth/T401%20Inframe/?action=view¤t=HeadonTyre-Chassisvalveview1.jpg
http://s1030.photobucket.com/albums...iew¤t=HeadonTyre-Chassisspringview1.jpg
http://s1030.photobucket.com/albums...tion=view¤t=BlockOilfilledCylinder1.jpg
Here are some pic's hopefully i have loaded them correctly
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