Amsoil oilchange

amsoil i believe claims 1/2 a million miles or more for a oil change. biggest thing is changing the filters every 25k and sending in a sample to get tested.

 

I think Castrol Oil has a simular system also, change oil ever 200,000km but change filters every 25,000km and send in oil samples.

 

I was involved with an owner that had six trucks running 22 hours 5 days a week, his units with other trucks pulling the same loads, same route. he installed spinner filters and oil sample test ports. He could rack up a lot of miles real quick and we did the bearing roll-in every 225,000 kilometers it was in N14's, 460 HP, 1850 torque. After 450,000 we did a cost estimate, increase in original oil, oil used, oil sampling. Compared to trucks that ran either Delo 400 or Rotella. figuring in fuel, and the condition inside the engines. There was absolutely no change in fuel mileage, the inside of the engines with the synthetics were full of a very soft jelly, and the bearings showed more wear. We changed the oil filters every 25,000 kilometers and the oil at 75,000 Kilometers. I do not remember the costs per thousand kilometers but it was higher with the synthetic and it did not do as good a job as changing it every 20,000 kilometers. We added a gallon of ATF to the oil 50 Kilometers before the trucks came in for the change to standard oil to flush them out. Just a thought!

 

Amsoil is almost the most expensive oil you can put in. How long it will go depends on the bypass filter you use and what your used oil samples look like. Technically, a group IV synthetic, like Amsoil, is better than the traditional truck oils. But how it works for you is the question. Some get long life and good results. Some don't. I tried it for about 60,000 miles in my ISX and then quit. My metal wear numbers on the engine climbed to levels that concerned me. Since then, I have been using a 40% synthetic blend from a local supplier that has given me great results with low wear numbers and only costs $9 a gallon and a 55 drum is delivered to me for $5. I typically do 25,000 mile OCI's and have a sample tested. From the results, I could probably extend it out a little longer.

Amsoil did not give me any real mpg gains, did not perform well in my engine, and just plain wasn't worth the inflated cost. At 26,000 miles, the wear numbers for Iron and lead were getting into the abnormal category, which has never happened with my current oil choice. In my Jeep Liberty Diesel, it is a different story. Amsoil has performed well in that ride and I will probably keep using it there.

Regarding the oil change if you go with something like Amsoil. Any place will do it, you just have to provide the oil. Not many people want to carry around 10-12 gallons of oil with them. I do my own services at home. I put the used oil in another oil drum. When I have a fresh drum delivered, they haul the other barrel with used oil away free of charge.

My advice: do not go with a product like Amsoil. You will probably never get a return on investment and may actually spend more overall. Many of the other synthetics are more cost effective, and the synthetic blends do a stellar job and, in my opinion, give the best bang for the buck. Check with local oil suppliers in your area. You may get a real good price on oil and they may actually do the oil changes for you.

 

Interesting reading men... look forward to more thoughts and experiences. Worrys me when i read more iron in the oil sample, jelly lined crankcase etc. Please post more details...
I run synthetic motor oil in winter months for the cold weather flowability (is that a real word?). Change at regular intervals. A waste of oil and money, i know, but i am close to fanatical about changing oils, grease etc.
I hope in the long run, it is cheap?...

 

You are not wasting oil and money if you are using the right product that does the best for your operation at the lowest cost. Cold weather flowability is only critical when the engine is cold at start up. A straight 40 weight will work in extreme cold provided it never cools down to the outside temp, which it won't in a running engine or within a couple of hours (that is based on 10 years experience running Alaska). I have found value in a good synthetic blend. There are good properties to both synthetic and conventional oils. The additive packages are tailored to the type of base oil and you get the benefits of both in a blend. Flowability would never be an issue anyway. The blends will flow well down to -35F, and at that point, most are running their engine frequently to avoid problems. Diesel gelling is more of a concern at those temps than if the oil will flow.

Regarding the higher iron and lead wear metals I experienced, it could just be that something like Amsoil or the additive package in it conflicted with my Cummins ISX. Like I stated, it works great in my Jeep Liberty Diesel and also my ag tractor. Either way, it is an extremely expensive product and unless you can get wildly extensive oil drain intervals, it is not very cost effective and the benefits just aren't worth the cost. I have taken engines to over 1.4 million miles on conventional oil with no major repair and no overhaul and they still ran fine. That being said, I still realize the benefits of synthetics and, based on my experience and oil sample results, I have settled in on synthetic blends instead of straight synthetics. Offers the best value for the dollar and gets good results for me.

I have 565,000 miles on this ISX and the wear numbers are lower at 25,000 mile OCI's than a lot of newer engines at similar or even shorter OCI's. And it is darn hard to beat the $9 a gallon cost of the synthetic blend I buy.

You have to live within your own comfort zone. If a person chooses a full synthetic, so be it. But I assume that most of us are trying to run a business in difficult economic times, and that means we are trying to get the most out of each dollar we spend. Full synthetics in the transmission and rears are cost effective and a good choice. In engines, I have not found that to be so true.

 

In the racing crowd a lot of people use the shaffers synthetic. Theres always a guy at the trade shows with a metal bar friction wheel that to me makes shaffers seem to be a pretty decent product compared to dino oil. Ive never ran it but I also never realised how inexpensive the stuff is nor do i know a supplier in the area.

 

Yeah, the "one armed bandit" method. Motorkote dealers use the same gizmo to show that their product beats everyone else. It doesn't prove a thing. Don't take my word for it, go to the Bob Is The Oil Guy website and see what a lot of the oil experts there have to say about it. You can make it show any oil you put on it is the best. It is all in how you apply the pressure to the arm.

None the less, Schaeffer is a darn good oil. It is less expensive than Amsoil. I would recommend it. Their pricing is pretty good and they have specials once in a while, like a free 30 tube case of grease with a purchase of a barrel. All shipped free of charge and includes free oil sample kits as well. If I didn't get such a great deal with my local dealer, I would definately use Schaeffer oil. There is a great Schaeffer dealer on the Bob is the oil guy website that is up front and honest. You can view the products they offer on the Schaeffer oil website.