over head ??? cummins m11

if you can do your car then I say YES , after you set them (and jakes if u have them) wind engine over buy hand a couple of full turns and then check clearance again. u will likely need to modify your feeler gauges or buy some of those bent type feeler gauges.

P.s do u know how to correctly set the injectors ? is M11 a celect plus ?

 

Injectors - ok i will break this down because it can be confusing (but easy once u understand). 1st there r 3 different areas/levels of resistance when setting injectors. the 1st is if you back injector all the way off, and then turn down with fingers you feel 1st resistance, 2nd then put spanner on injector and hold the spanner as close as possible to the injector and turn down (maybe 6 full turns approx) and u will feel resistance again, this is the point that you then back off the injector 3 flats / 1/2 turn. 3rd is where the injector totally bottoms out past the 2nd level of resistance(this is where u need to go to bleed injector).

Dont apply to much force at 3rd level of resistance or you may damage injector.

hopefully i explained that ok.

1. you need to bleed the injector, this is where u have to turn down the injector a min of 3 times(holding spanner go past the point of 2nd resistance and you will feel 3rd resistance) to bleed out all the fuel. so fully back off injector and then turn down until u get to point of 3rd resistance and repeat 3 to 4 times.

2. now turn down injector to the 2nd resistance level holding spanner as close as possible to the injector, once you r there, back off 3 flats (1/2 turn) Injector is now set according to Cummins rec.

Hope this helps

 

I wouldn't back it all the way off then set it just in case your on the wrong one by mistake. The adjustments are always small, if you find your self turning and turning and turning you need to STOP, you are doing some thing wrong! Basically the injector is adjusted while the rocker arm is already pushing all the way down on the injector. Loosen the lock nut and turn down the injector nut till it "bottoms" out. If the injector is close it will bottom out in only about 1/3 of a turn or so. When it bottoms out it isn't easy to sense, it is just starts to get slightly harder to turn, very soft and mushy almost. There is some fuel at the bottom of the injector that is squeezed out when you turn the nut down, that is why they say to repeat it a few times. You will get a good sense of what it feels like. I think the adjuster nut for the injector takes a 15/16" wrench. I like to use a very short wrench for this. If you use a long one and hold it at the end you have too much leverage and may not feel it start to bottom out and you may damage the injector! If you don't have a short wrench, then just hold it in the middle like they mentioned in the other post. I think the spec for the injectors is to back it off only 2 flats after you bottom it. Now, here is a hint that you have to do! The injector plungers form a ridge of carbon deposits from where it travels up and down. Since you have adjusted it the ridge of carbon may cause the plunger to get stuck and cause a no fire. Before you make any adjustments spray some penetration oil, like WD40 or KP53 all over the injectors through the big return springs. This will loosen up any carbon buildup and prevent a miss. Take your time and RTFM! Don't hesitate to ask questions!