Well, certainly not getting the fuel it used to. Fuel rack able to make full travel? AFC screwed up? Making proper fuel pressure? Boost leaks? Waste gate messed up?
Cat repair shop is giving me the run around.pls advise me
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by roberts11260, Aug 9, 2011.
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Good black smoke??? With ULSD, there is no such thing anymore.
But seriously, sounds like maybe your turbo has taken a crap or even the exhaust manifold is burned out??? It's a common problem with the B-model manifolds -
The head mechanic wrote me a email.
He said the he checked the AFR and found no problem. He then started the engine an noticed it was slow to respond. He then checked the static timing (pump position to number one TDC) and found that it was close to 6 degrees retarded.
Then goes on to say once timing was corrected he drove the truck and had no problem reaching top speed.
I am still very skeptical because he never mentions anything of black smoke being there.
I drive a 24 valve cummins and constantly watch the exhaust through the mirror and can honestly say there is so much that can be known about a diesel just by watching the exhaust, but yet the mechanic says nothing about the exhaust. -
not saying the tech knows all but smoke is not always a sighn of power . my ride is beast and i never see smoke unless i mess around and drive it wrong . i have other trucks that are turds and if you stand on it they smoke like a coal train but cant get out of there owen way
SHC Thanks this. -
smoke is a sign of incomplete combustion and that you are throwing fuel money out the stack!
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Yep, just wasting money. The more black doesn't = more power. The diesel turns black because there isn't enough oxygen to burn with.
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Roberts 11260: Check several things. These are easy and you can do them. 1. pull the line off the air fuel ratio. If there is oil in it that is the biggest problem. 2. The cover can be warped and leaking boost. You can also take the cover off and verify. I have used a piece of glass, and fine sand paper and lapped the cover. They warp under high heat. 3. Pull the inlet fuel line from the transfer pump and put a #2 phillips screw driver into the end if it doesn't go in the line is swollen and will cause the same problem. 4. Remove your fuel; tank cap and with the engine running see if you can see fuel returning back to the tank. The other way to tell if the return line is plugged is remove it from the back of the injection pump and blow into it and if it is plugged it will cause air to back up into the pump. 5. Another problem that will cause a sudden loss of power is if the timing advance is slipping. Someone who knows how to remove the timing advance cage without removing the whole timing advance can verify this. Yes, there are some moving parts in the injection pump but it doesn't cost 4-8,000.00 to repair. It would if you mess up the housing removing and reinstalling the individual injection pumps. Us old CAT guys know how to take them out and lap the bonnetts and get the injection pumps to work properly. I used to work for Holt CAT in Cols Ohio and when electronics came out, the guys forgot basic mechanical theory. The electronics also are mechanical and they can't tell the difference. Good Luck.
puncher Thanks this. -
Robert: If the timing was that far retarded did he check the timing advance for slipping inside or did he just reset it. If the timing advance was slipping it would do exactly what he corrected and would still be wrong. When I set my timing on any engine except for 350's I put it half of a hole advance. I am not sure how he decided it was 6 degrees. He must have more of a calibrated eye than me.
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Exactly.. kinda like the guys who want to buy a turbo that "whistles" so they can try to be the big dog at the truck stop and sound cool. That driver will soon find himself broke with a broken truck LOL
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rebuild AFR. Had a truck come in with same symptoms.Removed and disassembled valve diaphram looked ok no holesReplaced diaphram and internal o rings.Problem solved good luck.
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