Sprayed the bolts with some rust breaker tonite let it sit overnite try it in the morning. I have one tire on yet its rusted tightlike everything else. So i'll try knock it loose with that tire on the ground . Would not have taken tires off but inside one needs be changed anyway. The truck wasn't used much by previous owner. Some stuff just got rusted from sitting. I'm gona work this old truck till I trade it or kill it then fix it work it some more. I got 400 cord to haul from one job plus more from another so hope it lasts awhile anyway. Thanks for the advice bender on the dust shields too. I seen a lot of otr trucks without them any reason ? When I was looking at going otr looked at some roehl trucks they all had them on.
changing brakes on cast spoke hub drive axle
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by log trucker, Jan 5, 2012.
Page 3 of 7
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Some discard dust shields for ease of brake inspection when servicing the truck. Another advantage would be faster heat dissipation from the brakes and drums, but the drawback on the road is water spray hitting the brakes and drums when it's raining. Brakes don't work as well when they're wet.
When I remove an axle, I usually back the axle stud nuts out even or flush to the end of the stud. This helps save the stud in the case of a wild hit with a sledge. Then you only need to replace a nut and not a stud. You can hit that axle flange as hard as you like, you can't hurt it. Pretend your playing slow pitch softball and swing for the fence! -
Hey Log Trucker, sounds like everybody's got you on the right track.
A couple things I do is first spray those wedges with Blaster or WD or something before you start, in 40 years I have never chiseled one of them and wouldn't know where you would chisel, just whack it with a BIG hammer they will loosen. Once they pop, take a small screwdriver and drive it straight into the split in the wedge (screwdriver shaft parallel with the stud), this opens it up enough to pull off the stubborn ones. When you put it back together, the book says to tighten the first nut to 200 ft lbs while rotating the hub, back it off till just loose, then re tighten to 50 ft lbs put lock on then second nut and tighten it. I don't remember the torque for the second one, I probably go 150 or so.
Good luck
Truckbiz has reported that he forgot a step in this procedure which may impair safety.Last edited by a moderator: Jan 10, 2012
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Thanks truckbiz for the torque spec's forgot to ask the parts guy. They got brake parts on sale till end of Feb. so I'm gona check the other side too. I'm sure i'll get it apart. I plan to take care of the truck better than its been. Now hope the weather holds out sucks not being able to get it in the shop to big with the loader on it. Hopefully there will be extra money to add a new part on to my shop this summer. First yr in 11 yrs I gota work on things outside and not if my heated shop.
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go ahead and do the other side. you have already had the worst of it with the learning curve. i have always replaced brakes per axle. free advice and worth every penny. johnny
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So far no luck on getting those keepers loose rusted tight to the studs even hit it with the bfh (sledge hammer) no luck. Apparently the guy who did it before never heard of antiseaze Wow. Has anyone had any that wouldn't let go ? Or should I soak them more and keep hammering ?? If I could get those loose I think the rest would go smoothly.
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You can use a little heat on them and an 8 lb sledge does wonders. Get mad at it!
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You cant hurt the axle, hit it as hard as you can. As far as adjusting the bearing preload, after you tourqe the inner nut to 50ft lbs you have to loosen it 1/4 turn. Install the lock ring & outer nut & tighten that to 250-300 ft lbs. Sounds tight but real easy to get. Check the wheel end for play & readjust if needed. If you leave the inner nut at 50 without backing off the bearing will fail.
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Bender it won't be to hard getting mad at it definitely gona antiseaze them when it goes back together. Pup thanks for info hate to wreck a bearing. At least I guess it would be easy to pull apart second time.
rather not have to do that thou. Guess i'll try heating them next after lunch.
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If your wife happens to start an argument during lunch, when you go back to work on it, it will come right out. Lol
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like everything else. So i'll try knock it loose with that tire on the ground . Would not have taken tires off but inside one needs be changed anyway. The truck wasn't used much by previous owner. Some stuff just got rusted from sitting. I'm gona work this old truck till I trade it or kill it then fix it work it some more. I got 400 cord to haul from one job plus more from another so hope it lasts awhile anyway. Thanks for the advice bender on the dust shields too. I seen a lot of otr trucks without them any reason ? When I was looking at going otr looked at some roehl trucks they all had them on.