Got that hub on and tightened the bearing nut tight 200 ft lbs and it never got to tight to spin I had brakes set out just enough so it guided drum on. Also when first set on and spun the hub brakes caught just a little as I spun hub in one spot is this normal?? Almost like drum is off center from hub just a little. Do the pads just need to set in a bit ?? Drum did seem centered on hub when I installed it. Always something just when I think I got it done.
changing brakes on cast spoke hub drive axle
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by log trucker, Jan 5, 2012.
Page 6 of 7
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Log Trucker, I am really sorry for giving you bad info. I cant believe I forgot to tell you to back that axle nut off 1/4 turn!! I guess I think faster than I type and I lost the last detail. Thanks to PUP for getting it right.
Once again sorry -
I wouldn't leave the inner wheel nut a 200 ft lbs, that's too tight. 50 ft lbs max or back the nut up one flat on the hex, then install the lock plate and outer nut at 250 ft lbs.
Inboard drums rarely run perfectly true, no worry, adjust the brake to rotate free, measure pushrod travel at slack adjuster and adjust to 3/4 inch of travel when applied. -
Truck biz do you know if its normal for the pads to grab a bit in one spot as hub is spun ?? I'm gona set the slack adjuster in morning see if it grabs. It seemed like the drum was centered on hub could be off just a bit do to slack in the bolts I guess.
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Ok bender will do. I got it on and nut tightened and spun it and it caught a little and I got a knot in my gut like now what. I backed nut off gona set all that in the morning just wanted get it on and try spinning it. I got a axle socket today from the parts store.
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Your best bet is to back the brake adjustment off until your hub bearing adjustments are done so that you have no interference.
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I think I won't have prob setting the bearing I was just trying it wouldn't have left it tight. I got a magnetic base with adjustable arm that I can put a point dial on i'll set it on the outside ring of drum thats been turned at the factory and see how in-true that drum is running. Just out of curiosity. Got to get oil change done,fuel filters,and got new shocks to put on yet tomorrow. Have a job to start on wed.
Last edited: Jan 10, 2012
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Well, you're in the short rows now, you should make it ok.
Those drums are green castings when they're cut and they do change a little over time, so they usually aren't perfectly true. Could present a problem on a steer position but not normally on a drive. -
Log Trucker, it is very common to drag in one spot a little when everything is new, sometimes you can air up the truck and apply the brakes and that will even things up a little, you will have to use your best judgment here. If you have someone that can help you for a few minutes, have them spin the drum (after the bearings are set) while you look from the inside at the clearance between the drum and shoe. If the drum is out like 1/8" you should probably take it apart and re-seat the drum to the hub. These things are not perfect, it's 1950's technology, even if it's not perfect it will work fine.
You have got a lot of "new to you" info in the last couple days, and there are safety issues here, I'm not working tomorrow, if you need to talk, PM me with your phone # and I'll walk you through. -
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