CB noise from my inverter

I put a noise reducwer on the cb, that reduced but still there....

can get the reducer for like $20 at a ta or petro..


K

 

not too much you can do.... turn down the squelch maybe... but youd have to turn it down a lot, a reducer will help somewhat... the other thing ... is ... well youd need some sort of alternate power source for the CB or try getting an adapter to plug it into the Power inverter, but thats not worth it, or even a sure fix

 

If the noise is coming in thru the power leads theres some stuff you can try. First get your power straight from the battery, positive and negitive. Check to see if the noise goes away when you disconnect the antenna, if it does then its coming in the antenna lead. Make sure where the antenna is mounted is grounded properly. Your inverted probably has a bad diode in it allowing the A/C to feed backwards into the dc lines of the truck. Check it with a a/c volt meter. It should read 0 across the 12 system.

 

or just don't run both at the same time. simple

my cb is wired through my inverter power coming from the battery. so I can't run both at the same time. maybe not always convenient but I am a company diver so I'm not supposed to be running wires to the battery. lol just use the inverter as a jumper!

you could spend a lot of time to fix this problem and still may never figure it out.

 

I am having the exact same problem here. Only thing is, I had an 800 watt inverter and never had any problems, now that I have upgraded to a 2500 watter, the CB is screaming like a raped ape. I gotta fix this. I tried ground the inverter at the frame and at the battery with no difference in either. I bought a noise suppressor and all that did was waste my time. I will try different antenna and coax configs when I get home.

 

I just moved my junk from a Volvo into a Columbia. I don't use the factory antennas, or coax. I stuck my Monkey Made on the aluminum mirror frame and ran a new coax to the radio. The radio is connected to the factory CB power source up in the CB hole (likely my problem, yes?). I can get pretty good RF range, but the static seems to be drowning low powered signals. Unplugging the cooler and turning off the inverter has no effect. I know some "hiss" is always going to be there when the squelch is zero, but, I'd sure love to tone it down without giving up long distance conversations.

 

The biggest problem with the less expensive inverters is the noise that can be produced and radiated from the wiring.
To reduce the amount of noise radiated from the unit requires filtering both the 12vdc side & the 110vac side.
You place the filters at the unit, not several feet away.
You're trying to eliminate the amount of wire available to act as an antenna.

Better (read more expensive) inverters use a different technology to produce the 110vac that lends itself to "cleaner" units.
These also require a filter in some situations as well.

To filter the 12vdc input requires a fairly stout filter due to the amperage that the inverter uses.
You size the 12vdc filter for the particular inverters current draw & the frequency range that must be attenuated.

Filtering the output is a bit easier because there's off the shelf filters meant for the 110vac lines in a residential environment.
When choosing a 110vac filter, don't look for something that says surge protected only.
That's not an indication of being filtered.
The package will specify if there's real filtering components inside.

You may need to visit a place like Grangers or some other industrial electrical supply place to obtain these filters.
A camping supply place might have something since they use many different types of inverters.

If you want to try some "el cheapo" ideas first, try wrapping the 110vac cord into a tight bundle where it leaves the unit.
A few feet of bundled or wrapped wire might just do the trick.
You could try this on the 12vdc side as well but the heavy wire doesn't lend itself readily to wrapping or bundling.

Another source of troubling noise can come from the engine's own ECM or transmission control computer (if your truck has one).
Getting rid of these noise sources can be a real trick.
This is where you get the manufacturer involved.
Their computers aren't supposed to radiate enough energy to cause a problem.
This goes in step with why the FCC has rules for how much energy leakage can eminate from a home computer.

In any case, be prepared to spend some time cutting and trying different remedies.

 

Dude it's strait to the battery for you! or try to look in you manual and see if you can find an extra power source in your fuse box. There should be several extra, unused 30 amp junctions there. Plus make sure your not crimping your coax in the door or window.

 

I also drive 2007 Columbia and have been in Columbias since 2001. The factory radio connections overhead are ok for a 4 watt radio . Remember the more audio, and rf power requires more DC. As far as Monkey mades or Strikers they are good broadband antennas and really do not perform any better, just more band spread. The single most important thing is tuning your antenna. Second is quality of Coax and good conectors.

I run a Galaxy 95t radio (before the HAM's start yes I do have a amature extra class license so give it a rest) it is connected to the 12v bus under the inspection panel top of the dash passenger side, You will find 3 large connections on the right side of the fuse box, 1 is switched, 2 are hot make sure you use a fuse as close as possible. Any doubt here refer to your companies mechanic for connection. The ground is connected to the cab near the door frame with a sheet metal screw and a external/internal lockwasher. My antenna is mounted on the chrome bar that runs across the back of the sleeper. I use a Wilson 2000 thats is tuned to a flat match on 27.185. My choice of antenna cable is RG142u its is silver and 95% ground coverage(make sure your connectors are soldiered correctly not crimped). Regarding grounds in a Columbia (probably any freighliner) It is critial that you remove the ground cable from the frame (behind the batteries) clean the paint off the frame and replace the ground cable. I use a conductive grease to ensure I have obtained a good electricial connection that will not corode. Be careful if you use this grease it is conductive. Also make sure your other grounds a clean and secure (engine to frame, engine to alternator, and cab to doors).

I also have 2 intervers a 200 watt cobra for my computer, and a 2500 watt Tripp w/ shore power option (meaning it will also charge the batteries when plugged into 110v).

I do not have any noise problems at all even when everything is bring used. When chasing downn noise problems you have to determin what is generating yje noise before you start throwing money at the problem. If its a bad ground all the filter and caps in the world will not take it back out. If its bad doides in the alternetor fix the alternator, If its the inverter get the interver repaired, etc...