Conversion to Single Turbo with Bully Dog Power Pup?

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Logtruck08, Jan 21, 2012.

  1. Superhauler

    Superhauler TEACHER OF MEN

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    keep stroking.
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    i dont know what the issue is but my buddy just did a full conversion and his blowby smoke and oil issue disapeared. he had his top turbo checked out after only being on for 3 months and it was sucking oil in the housings. i think thats what is going on with mine. it runs great but still have alot of blowby smoke and a little oil driping. im waiting for a while to see how his does then im going the single turbo route.
     
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  3. 01DodgeCummin

    01DodgeCummin Bobtail Member

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    Pocatello, Idaho
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    Have you made any other modifications to the engine?
     
  4. Logtruck08

    Logtruck08 Bobtail Member

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    Jan 19, 2012
    Maine
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    Pullingtrucker So what were your "turbo issues"?

    had to replace the top turbo in Nov 2010 when it was still under Warranty, then had to replace the bottom turbo & manifold in March 2011.
     
  5. Logtruck08

    Logtruck08 Bobtail Member

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    Jan 19, 2012
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    01DodgeCummin--I had it rerated to 550 by CAT garage in March 2011 when I put the bottom turbo & manifold in
     
  6. Pfuse

    Pfuse Light Load Member

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    Aug 18, 2006
    La Crosse, WI
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    I did mine because of a mechanical failure in the turbo and because I already had a Power Pup.

    At this point I could take it or leave it. My mileage has not improved, but the power is up substantially.
     
  7. Logtruck08

    Logtruck08 Bobtail Member

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    Jan 19, 2012
    Maine
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    Geez Pfuse--your mileage didn't improve?
     
  8. Bob's Buzz

    Bob's Buzz Light Load Member

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    Jan 15, 2011
    Georgetwn, Calif.
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    Get hold of Mr Haney!!
     
  9. pullingtrucker

    pullingtrucker Road Train Member

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    Fostoria, Ohio
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    My high pressure turbo seized 4 days after a inframe (suspect debris in the oil line/turbo feed). I replaced the low pressure due to chasing a boost leak and was scratching my head as to its where-abouts. Since then I found narrowed down my boost leak to between the turbos and intercooler, but can not still definetly locate it.

    Like I asked before...what were your turbo issues. Were you having problems with the VVAs instead? Give us more insight on your original problem and we may be able to narrow you focus onto the problem. Remember there are some pretty smart guys on here.
     
  10. Logtruck08

    Logtruck08 Bobtail Member

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    Jan 19, 2012
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    thanks pullingtrucker--since the truck has been running fine for the last 1-1/2 yrs & I don't have those turbos anymore I'd like to spend the brain cells I don't have left to what's happened since the conversion. Quick summary of the past is when the top turbo was replaced in Nov 2010 they also replaced the acctuators & solenoids, air tube, cooler bracket, turbo tubes bellows did a download & I don't remember what else. It was also rerated to a 550. When they did a head gasket in March 2011 the other turbo was done & they did the manifold & VVA oil pressure sensor.

    1/14/12 installed the ceramic manifold, BFT-1-400-725HP performance turbo, power pup, air to air pipes, oil drain line for turbo, antifreeze line fr reservoir to pump. Changed oil & oil filter.

    Basically what happens is when I build 43 psi of boost pressure I can hear the turbo "unspool" and I can only build 30 psi of boost until I stop the truck and shut down the engine and restart it, then the truck goes back to full power until I induce a load that requires 43 psi of boost again, then it derates again. There is no Check engine light nor are any codes logged.

    Brought to CAT garage, put on computer, changed actuator sensor, showed Boost Lockout. Tried C18 Boost Sensor. At first it was REALLY good, then back to derate. Low oil pressure reading in VVA. Tried solenoid.

    Readjusted acctuators. I've done so many re-programs I don't remember what else was tried during this time but it did take longer before it derated.

    Air into Acert reading was only 28. Tried cardboard behind radiator.

    Back to CAT garage (each time is 150 miles round trip). Had it on computer & test drove all day. Couldn't find a thing wrong with CAT stuff.

    Tried 3 more programs from BD. 2nd try started giving Code 92 again.

    I'm not a mechanic, definately don't know electricity or electronics & I'm so stressed out, fried and now broke that I can't remember all the details, it's all a blur right now. At some point they put it back to stock & that didn't change anything either. YET ANOTHER PROGRAM. Somewhere in all this nightmare there's already a resistor to fool it into thinking its over 100 degrees too.

    BD sent a boost fool. tested in economy--no power. tested in power/economy--derate. tried another program to keep it below 40 psi--derated.

    There's stuff I probably left out & I might have stuff out of sequence but I'm fried and this is the best I can do. I appreciate any thoughts anyone has.

    And here I am, spent a FORTUNE to get this and another FORTUNE of fuel, garage fees, parts and lost wages and about to loose everything :biggrin_25510:
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2012
  11. SHC

    SHC Spoiled Rotten Brat O/O

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    Westville, IN
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    To be honest, you need to call Pittaburg Power and speak with them. They have done over 300 ACERT conversions and they can tell you EXACTLY what needs to be done and maybe help you. When I had my MXS C15 i went to them for a tune and it was great after that. To upgrade to a non-ACERT it was about $12,000 modification. I was extremely happy with just my tune, but like I said, they have been doing them for about 5 years now and know what they are doing!!!!

    It would be a haul, but if you add in all the 150 mile trips, lost revenue and cost for parts/ECm hookups, you could have drove there and been done with it all by now with a warranty.

    http://www.pittsburghpower.com/
     
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