Hi Guys, I have 95 WIA64TES with a D12 415hp that has an problem. The problem started last fall, right before I put it away for the winter, but now spring is here and I need to get it figured out so i can start using it again.
The engine will randomly shut off/cut out while driving. It SEEMS that it happens more freqently under a load or while accelerating, but I can't be 100% sure because it's hard to consistantly recreate it.
USUALLY just cycling the key while still rolling and it will restart, but a couple times I've had to pull over to the side of the road unsure if it would start again, and it would fire up after a few minutes.
I'm not sure if we possibly created this problem while fixing another. But last summer I had a wierd low power issue when it warmed up, that ended up being a loose wire crimp under the valve cover. While we were chasing that problem we replaced the fuel pump, and the throttle position sensor. Is it possible that one of those new items could cause this issue if it's malfunctioning?
Also, trying to fix an intermittently working Engine Brake, the shop replaced the speed sensor on the transmission, and messed with the wiring to the speed sensor. They actually made that problem worse, because the engine brake went from intermittant to non-working after they worked on it. (Although the speedo does work, not sure if they run off the same or different sensor?) Any chance that wiring would cause an intermittant stall out?
Thanks guys,![]()
'95 Volvo with D12 random cutting/stalling out
Discussion in 'Volvo Forum' started by Image, Mar 15, 2012.
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it is common fuel deliver issue. Unfortunatly D12A and D12B had no fuel pressure sensor (it appeared in '98 with D12C) and if fuel system sucks air ore fuel pump goes bad - no fault codes.
Do NOT PRESSURISE FUEL IN TANK ORE IN FUEL LINES, becoue Volvo ECM is fuel cooled and early D12A ECMs had big body easy to damage with pressure over 2 bar. Fuel pump sucks fuel throught ECM.
To check fuel pressure use fuel bleed valve on top of cyl. head. use 10 ore 11 socket to unscrew it, give it to any machine shop and lathe man will make you adapter for gauge,
Usually pressure at idle is over 1.5-2 bar, and cuts out at 4-5 barImage Thanks this. -
Thanks Pablo, I will start there. Maybe a fuel line got hurt changing the fuel pump?
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I would run new fuel lines from the pump na k to the tank I've worked on a few trucks that ran goodband all of a sudden would just die pull over crank it and it would fire right up it turned out the fuel lines were rotted and sucking air might want to check that out not to expensive just a pia to do
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Do you guys know of anywhere I can get custom fuel lines made?
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Which fuel lines if your talking about the lines to the tanks just take your fittings off to the truck parts store and get new lines all the fittings are reusable so you just buy the line any good truck parts store carries it just make sure you get the right stuff there is air bake hose that looks the same but is not it will say right on the hose
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I was thinking of replacing all the lines on the pressure side also, from the pump through the filter, up to the engine, and the line that goes from the engine back to the pump. I was thinking i could have some flexible (maybe braided steel?) lines made to replace them?
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Try a hydralic shop
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Ok Thanks will do. I know a guy that builds those ricer race cars too, I'll ask him if he has a local source also.
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I was talking to another guy today, and he said air in a fuel line wouldn't shut it down instantly like it is doing, that it would try to spit/sputter and probably blow smoke also.
What do you guys think? because the stalling out is instant when it happens, just like the key was turned off with no warning.
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