Loss Of Power d12 engine

Well my yellow light doesnt come on when I cycle the key or start the truck. Just a red one does.

I didn't have much time to check it out today. But I did notice that one of the lines coming off the air compressor has a sensor on it with a label that says Kysor!!! (What the heck?!!!) My phone was dead so I couldn't take a picture, but I'll get one tomorrow.

I did get a volvo d12 electronic controls manual in the mail today. I'm going to look it over tonight. It's 130 pages of fun

 

Then the yellow light's bulb is burnt out. It's Likely a sensor. Kysor makes all kinds if switches for air to so don't worry about that.

 

Ok, i put all new bulbs in the dash, the yellow bulb was actually missing. Looking through my new manual it shows me how to pull codes by reading the flashes of the yellow light.

I had codes:
13 - vehicle speed sensor (i already knew about this issue)
26 - cam sensor
31-36 - injector units 1 through 6

Reading the book it shows how the engine decides injector pulsing based off the cam sensor, so i think a bad cam sensor possibly could cause the 31-36 codes too? Anyways i cleared the codes, and the only one to come back right away was #13 VSS.

I went ahead and replaced the cam sensor anyways, although i am not sure if they can 'intermittantly fail'. I guess we'll see if it happens again. I dont feel confident thats the fix, but i'll keep you informed.

 

I just did a few more things too just in case.

1) Replaced Ignition switch
2) Noticed the fuse for the ignition circut was kind of loose in it's holder. Pulled the fuse holder out, cleaned and tighted it, and put it back together. (hoping this was the problem)

Hopefully those things, along with the new cam sensor will give me a good running Volvo I can trust on the road!

 

Good luck!!

 

Well none of those fixed cured it. It still did it this last week.

The other day I noticed there is another water temp sensor near the water pump, it's not listed in my wiring diagram, but it's there. Anyways I noticed the connector on it is broken, and you could see where it looks like the pins have been rubbing together, which would short it out, and I think it would make the computer think the motor is hot --- shutting it down. Anyways I just clipped those wires off since I have an aftermarket temp gauge in the truck anyways, and I haven't had a problem yet in about 700 miles (knock on wood).

I think i finally got it fixed with that !

 

I would replace the Boost/Temperature sensor

 

i've been thinking about doing that. I hadn't had any problems in a couple weeks, then it acted up again the other day (after pulling a steep grade on a 84* day). I let it cool off, wiggled all the wires and connectors, and it's been fine since. The engine temp was fine, but I was thinking that the intake air temp might of been too hot - either the sensor of the IAC itself not working good enough?

 

The problem with me was with the pressure side of the sensor. It gets clogged with sod from the EGR and and the ECM sends less fuel. Less air=less fuel or at least thats what the ECM reads from the sensor. Hope that helps you too

 

can i have that volvo manual too