Lease/purchase....How do they do it?

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by MNdriver, Apr 7, 2012.

  1. MNdriver

    MNdriver Road Train Member

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    memory is shaky, but I want to say 22-23K tare.
     
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  3. JustAnotherJarhead

    JustAnotherJarhead Bobtail Member

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  4. BigKid2

    BigKid2 Road Train Member

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    I have a T660 which is about 17,500 lbs. they are supposed to be about 400 lbs lighter than a T600.
     
  5. dannythetrucker

    dannythetrucker Road Train Member

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    You're supposed to just look at the big paychecks ! you know the gross. You're not supposed to do the math and figure out that you're left with the same or less than a company driver !! haha. :biggrin_2556::biggrin_2555::biggrin_2559:
     
  6. windsmith

    windsmith Road Train Member

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    You can't. Figure that it costs you around $1.25 per mile on average to move the truck. Whatever is left from your rate after that is what you get to keep. If you must lease on to a company, then look for one that pays percentage of line haul.
     
  7. MNdriver

    MNdriver Road Train Member

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    I can't see it happening for less than $1.43 per mile on a truck of $25,000 and a $6,000 dry van.
     
  8. windsmith

    windsmith Road Train Member

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    You're probably right, I was only considering the power unit. You might want to go with a reefer though, since you can haul temp controlled AND dry van with it. :)

    I'd be curious to see your numbers, sounds like your maintenance reserve numbers might be a bit on the high side, or you're a bit pessimistic with your fuel economy.
     
  9. MNdriver

    MNdriver Road Train Member

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    maintenance I am at 14.2 cpm,

    Fuel Mileage I am at 6 mpg, fuel is $4.099 and FSC is 57 cpm.

    I opted for the dry van to start as it will allow me to buy a reefer on cash at the end of the first year instead of financing one.
     
  10. windsmith

    windsmith Road Train Member

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    Looks fairly accurate, although it appears that for the brakes you've used the 'per axle' cost as the 'per wheel' cost. Or your shop is charging double what the rate is here. :p

    I don't think you're paying yourself enough. IMO, it's not worth being self employed unless your gross pay is $2000 per week. You can do better as a company driver otherwise. And you might be able to trim health insurance costs by going with a HDHP to cover catastrophic events and paying a bit more up front for PCP visits and meds.
     
  11. MNdriver

    MNdriver Road Train Member

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    medicals include health, dental, vision, life, short and long term disabilities. Since I am divorced, there are some things that are "court ordered" in the child support decree.

    The "wages" are what I need to cover household expenses +$500 each month.

    The brakes are for new slacks, s-cams, drums, shoes and hardware annually for each wheel. That price is based off what I can find for the price of the components at each piece price. It's actually for tractor only. Yeah, I know I can back it off a bit. But I see it as "murphy" insurance too.

    I tend to go "overboard" on some of the maintenance. I am an old army maintenance NCO and will replace it BEFORE it fails than after. Saves downtime which is even more expensive.
     
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