Getting Better Mileage From An Older Peterbilt

I agree with Brickman. Give it a mere tuneup and keep on keeping on. I'd drive this thing until it drops, as they're designed to last that long. By that time, you may be ready to retire.

I'd like to have an old rig like this and be doing a job with it each day. I can see myself driving a green Brockway from about '75, sure. It'd look like those gorgeous Brocks you see around Boston a lot. That thing could possibly last until 2075.

 

Let me point out that what I suggested was not the upgrades that run on the computer. if his engine is anywhere near the age of his truck, it is completely mechanical. But the portion of pittsburgh's site that I recommended is the older articles they keep on file, many of which are from the older days when Mechanical pumps and mechanical controls on the engine were the order of the day. Looking through those back articles, he may be able to find some info that will apply to his engine and CPL number that could bring him a potential fuel mileage increase.

PP makes some nice gear for upping the hp on a newer motor, and if you are looking for hp, they are the folks to go to. But they have a long history with older engines, and they have been kind enough to leave that info on their site for folks to look through.

 

I used to read articles in one of the slick truck-stop magazines about these upgrades. I THINK this place was PP. The articles I read were by a guy named 'Bruce', and he talked about upgrading mainly Cummins engines. He told about how one can increase the output of Big Cam IIIs and IVs, along with upgrading 5.9L pickup engines to 500 horsepower firebreathers. Good stuff.

I wonder if this is the same place. I'm pretty sure it is. If so, it's a good place to go. Bruce seemed to know his stuff.

 

Yepper Tip, you are right. Those articles are by Bruce Mallinson, owner of PP. I love those articles because it's obvious that Bruce is a hot-rodder at heart, and really knows his stuff.

I read an article about a hot-rod NTC they built, on the dyno it was putting down 750 hp!! And it still had rpm to run, and more fuel pressure it could use! They (Bruce and some cummins engineers) guesstimated HP around 800 at the rear wheels, 950 at the crank and around 2200-2400 lb ft of torque!

 

That's the guy alright. Bruce Mallinson. Now if I can just remember the name of the magazine.

I read in one of Bruce's articles way back when about diesels and using ether to start those. Bad move, according to him. Too much ether can break compression rings, meaning lower compression and even MORE ether will be needed later. I remembered my uncle had an Oliver diesel tractor that was addicted to ether....I told him about this article, and then he checked the rings. Sure enough, some were broken.

 

My dad always told me to use WD40 instead of ether. Always seemed to work just fine with no damage.

 

WD-40 has an abrasive agent in it, I THINK. I could be wrong. It makes sense that it would. It'd be like the soap with pumice mechanics use.

If WD does have particles in it, you naturally don't want to let an engine sniff it. That will score an engine's bores, plus scratch up the rings. I would say bearings too, but the particles are probably too big.

 

I have used whole cans (large) of WD 40 at one time trying to get engines to pick up fuel after the driver ran it out with no adverse effect.

This was one of my trucks, a DT466 mechanical.

That was over 10 years ago and the new owners still run the truck every day.

I also used it when I was a small engine mechanic to fire up and run 2 cycle engines. It would start and run the engine without scuffing the cylinder.

The WD 40 trick is the easiest way to get old fuel out of a 2 cycle carb, while allowing new fuel to limber up the diaphragms without hurting the engine.

 

WD-40 does have abrasives in it. I don't think it is so bad for large engines, but it is murder on electric motors like a/c condensors and furnaces. Better to use 3in1 or some type of sewing machine oil on bearings on electric stuff.

 

WD has grit in it, but apparently it's too small to score engine bores. I know it'll get ink out of clothes, and it'll also take adhesive from tape and decals off windows without scratching. If that's the case, I guess it'll be fine to use in a diesel instead of ether. Ether is too explosive and may break piston rings. I'd not use ether in a diesel. If you begin using it, you may break rings and then need it at start up nearly all the time.